[ARC5] Penetrating Oils

[J. Forster]

Formula 409 has butyl cellosolve, also known as 2-butoxyethanol.

Anything alkaline, like ammonium hydroxide, is a risk for some tube and
chassis and dial markings.

-John

=================



>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard Knoppow" <1oldlens1 at ix.netcom.com>
> To: <jfor at quikus.com>; "D C _Mac_ Macdonald" <k2gkk at hotmail.com>
> Cc: "ARC-5 Mail List" <arc5 at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2013 3:14 PM
> Subject: Re: [ARC5] Penetrating Oils
>
>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "J. Forster" <jfor at quikus.com>
>> To: "D C _Mac_ Macdonald" <k2gkk at hotmail.com>
>> Cc: "ARC-5 Mail List" <arc5 at mailman.qth.net>
>> Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2013 10:21 AM
>> Subject: Re: [ARC5] Penetrating Oils
>>
>>
>>> Are you sure?
>>>
>>> I've used Fantastik for decades w/o issues. OTOH, 409 does cause
>>> problems
>>> with some plastics.
>>>
>>> -John
>>
>>    I don't know the difference between Formula 409 and Fantastic but
>> have
>> read similar warnings.  I have a household cleaner from the 99cent store
>> that is quite effective but caused the labels on an old typewriter to
>> run.
>> Fortunately, I had used it in only one place. I have to agree with Mike
>> that you must test anything you want to use.
>>    Probably the least harmful cleaner is plain liquid dishwashing
>> detergent. Its also surprisingly effective.
>>    Other stuff in this thread are penetrating oils and rust removers.
>> Most
>> rust removers use a type of chemical called a reducing agent. These
>> combine with the oxygen in oxidized metals. Similar substances are used
>> as
>> photographic developers.  The most common reducing agent in rust
>> removers
>> seems to be phosphoric acid, that's what's in Naval Jelly. Another is
>> oxalic acid, used in cleaners like Zud and Barkeeper's Friend. Either
>> can
>> remove nickel or chrome plating if left for too long. The MSDS for some
>> rust removers, such as Evapo-Rust, don't list any of the ingredients.
>> Evapo-Rust claims none of its ingredients are hazardous.
>
>
> Back in the 70-80's Hemming Motor News had an advertiser for a PF-47
> deruster that came in crystaline form in a 1 or 5 gallon can. Just add
> some
> in hot water to dissolve and wait 6-24 hours depending on how much was
> used.
> I havent been able to find any info on it and still have some left if a
> chemist here wants to test it. I hate paying to ship mostly water by the
> gallon. When it turns black I dilute and spray on ground moss to kill it.
>
> A soapy/oily feel often signifies an alkaline such as Sodium Hydroxide,
> aka
> lye, which is very hazardous. Ive used that in the back yard to clean
> engine
> blocks, heads, rear ends, springs, solid front axles, and other large
> items
> for decades; bought 100# bags. It works fine in a 275 gal oil tank cut in
> half  with some charcoal heat to keep a bit warm.
>
> Farmers have used sulfated molasses for centuries to derust. A 1:4 or 5
> ratio of molasses to water works well but takes 5-10 days to work on an
> engine block that has almost plugged water passages, depending upon water
> temperature. After washing down with a hose the block looks new. It doesnt
> remove grease or paint as does NaO2 but many plants love it and its non
> hazardous to waste water fields or public sewers.I also use it for many
> other small to medium sized items where Im not in a rush. Antique tools,
> hardware, old chassis, large and small transformer bells, etc.
> Do not use on aluminum, copper, etc. Ive cleaned automotive pot metal by
> watching carefully as it doesnt take long.
>
> Ive also cleaned antique carbs with room temperature NaO2 with a couple of
> 3
> second dips and then ito a plastic 5 gal bucket of  cold water. There is
> nothing like a set of like new Stromberg 97's or Holley 94's sitting on a
> polished intake on a vintage flathead, Y Block, Chebby, Rocket 88, etc.
>
> Carl
>
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