[ARC5] Rust-Solvent and Prep Step

Tom Bridgers tarheel6 at msn.com
Mon Jan 28 15:22:39 EST 2013


Found both of these products ("Rust-Solvent" and "Prep-Step")using Google.  Prices are reasonable.  And the description sounds promising -- backing up what you all said.I'll definitely give them a try -- based on your recommendation.Many thanks,-Tom  KE4RHH
 > From: arc5-request at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: ARC5 Digest, Vol 108, Issue 138
> To: arc5 at mailman.qth.net
> Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 14:00:13 -0500
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> Today's Topics:
> 
>    1. Re: race car blueprints (Geoff)
>    2. Re: Rusty Tuning Cap (Kenneth G. Gordon)
>    3. Re: Rusty Tuning Cap (Geoff)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 12:21:14 -0500
> From: "Geoff" <geoffrey at jeremy.mv.com>
> To: <gewhite at crosslink.net>
> Cc: arc5 at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [ARC5] race car blueprints
> Message-ID: <A8A6433BAC9846039AD1517E511C736B at computer1>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> 	reply-type=original
> 
> That is good to know. Several years ago I contacted them about visiting and 
> searching for specific info on the flathead V-8 era and was told I was not 
> an accredited researcher. OTOH I had long been known as a performance 
> builder of them, supplied references, and was primarily interested in block 
> alloys and cylinder wall thicknesses.
> 
> Subject: Re: [ARC5] race car blueprints
> 
> 
> The HFM plans to make copies available to anyone who wants them. That's what 
> I do now.
>  - Gordon White
> 
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 10:34:06 -0800
> From: "Kenneth G. Gordon" <kgordon2006 at frontier.com>
> To: ARC-5 List <arc5 at mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: Re: [ARC5] Rusty Tuning Cap
> Message-ID: <5106C49E.25251.4339AAC at kgordon2006.frontier.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
> 
> On 28 Jan 2013 at 9:00, Robert  Eleazer wrote:
> 
> > I am checking on a replacement, but do any of y'all have any
> > suggestions?
> 
> I can highly recommend a product called "Rust-Solv". This is a non-corrosive 
> liquid that chemically interacts with rust to actually dissolve it.
> 
> I have used this product on rusted rifles, and other bits that would be 
> destroyed or severely damaged by other methods, with total success.
> 
> The product is reusable until it turns a dark color, then can be safely thrown 
> out.
> 
> I bought a gallon of it some time ago for a very reasonable sum, and still 
> have most of it.
> 
> I'll try to dig out the exact information on how to order it and will post that 
> here asap.
> 
> Ken W7EKB
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 13:59:47 -0500
> From: "Geoff" <geoffrey at jeremy.mv.com>
> To: "Robert  Eleazer" <releazer at earthlink.net>,	<arc5 at mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: Re: [ARC5] Rusty Tuning Cap
> Message-ID: <F25455CBE53741F0AAF1F05BF1BF0694 at computer1>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> 	reply-type=original
> 
> There are water based solutions (called derusters, rust removers, etc) used 
> by automotive and other restorers that remove iron oxide, do not attack the 
> base metal or aluminum, copper, brass, etc.
> 
> The cap would have to be removed and dunked per instructions.
> 
> The problem with those is that after drying flash rust will develop unless 
> prevented. I dip caps in "Prep Step" and let dry. In a dry indoor enviroment 
> there hasnt been any more rust for a decade or more.
> Ive also stored dipped or sandblasted auto parts outside for over a year in 
> an open shed or under a tarp.
> 
> Carl
> 
> 
> > Any of y'all ever try to repair a rusty tuning cap?  I have an NC-270 I 
> > picked up and it has a bit of rust on the chassis.  Most of it is not a 
> > problem and I have treated it, but the main tuning cap is pretty rusty.
> >
> > The cap plates are not rusty but the frame is, which I do not see as a big 
> > problem, except for the area on one end where the "wiper" is for the 
> > shaft.  That is so rusted that there is no way any decent electrical 
> > contact is occurring.  I doubt the feasibility of dismantling it and 
> > cleaning it up with insuring complete destruction.
> >
> > I am checking on a replacement, but do any of y'all have any suggestions?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Wayne
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