[ARC5] Rusty Tuning Cap
Mike Everette
radiocompass at yahoo.com
Mon Jan 28 14:21:23 EST 2013
One of my favorite elixers for helping get rid of rust and corrosion is the aerosol, P-B Blaster. Be warned, it might attack plastic, wax insulation, and some other things; but it does a marvelous job of degreasing and busting corrosion. In receivers with terminal strips riveted to the chassis, a little of this stuff dribbled around the rivet head and the base of the terminal strip goes a long way toward solving problems. I have also used it to fix intermittent wipers on tuning caps, both where the wiper contacts the frame and the condenser shaft itself.
Don't "hose" anything with P-B Blaster. Just squirt some into a Q-tip (watch out for your eyes!) and apply it that way; or with a small artist's brush. Don't let the stuff get on a dial, or plastic dial window.
P-B Blaster also does wonders for getting old dried and caked grease out of bearing races and gearboxes. Once they are clean, I re-lube them with LaBelle 102, a viscous oil intended for hobby motors. This oil will stay in place for a long time. If you want to disassemble a bearing race to repack it with actual grease, fine; but I prefer not to risk losing the bearings (happened once). And, there are greases made for the model train and R-C boat folks which can be injected using a "syringe" tip on a bottle or tube; LaBelle makes a lithium-based grease intended for small gearboxes which does well for this.
Be warned: P-B Blaster is strong stuff and should only be used with PLENTY of ventilation!
However, lest anyone get excited or think me naive, I fully realize that in things like dynamotors, a heavier grease is mandatory!
And, of course, DeOxit is the ultimate lubricant for condenser wipers, switch contacts, etc. I would never dispute that. Use it all the time.
Another rust remover I have not heard mentioned here, is Coca-Cola! Yep! It will take out light rust. (Imagine what it does to your innards...!)
73
Mike
W4DSE
--- On Mon, 1/28/13, Geoff <geoffrey at jeremy.mv.com> wrote:
> From: Geoff <geoffrey at jeremy.mv.com>
> Subject: Re: [ARC5] Rusty Tuning Cap
> To: "Robert Eleazer" <releazer at earthlink.net>, arc5 at mailman.qth.net
> Date: Monday, January 28, 2013, 1:59 PM
> There are water based solutions
> (called derusters, rust removers, etc) used by automotive
> and other restorers that remove iron oxide, do not attack
> the base metal or aluminum, copper, brass, etc.
>
> The cap would have to be removed and dunked per
> instructions.
>
> The problem with those is that after drying flash rust will
> develop unless prevented. I dip caps in "Prep Step" and let
> dry. In a dry indoor enviroment there hasnt been any more
> rust for a decade or more.
> Ive also stored dipped or sandblasted auto parts outside for
> over a year in an open shed or under a tarp.
>
> Carl
>
>
> > Any of y'all ever try to repair a rusty tuning
> cap? I have an NC-270 I picked up and it has a bit of
> rust on the chassis. Most of it is not a problem and I
> have treated it, but the main tuning cap is pretty rusty.
> >
> > The cap plates are not rusty but the frame is, which I
> do not see as a big problem, except for the area on one end
> where the "wiper" is for the shaft. That is so rusted
> that there is no way any decent electrical contact is
> occurring. I doubt the feasibility of dismantling it
> and cleaning it up with insuring complete destruction.
> >
> > I am checking on a replacement, but do any of y'all
> have any suggestions?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Wayne
> >
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