[ARC5] Command sets and the dish-washer (can I do this?)

[Leslie Smith]

Ok, I feel very very naughty for doing this, but ...

(Dave S)
> The inside of the dishwasher smelled of some sort of
> chemical for a week.  My mom made me scrub it, but
> it didn't help.  Within a couple of months, every little 
> metal interface in the set began to corrode from the
> soup I used.  I've never done it again.

Aren't mom's unreasonable?  Just think, if she hadn't made you scrub the
radio (after being inside the dirty dishwasher) perhaps it wouldn't have
corroded.

(Serious now) 

> (Dave S)
> That being said, I'm going to make some of you cringe,
> because I have washed a great many radios, including
> my salt-water contaminated, now working and *not*
> corroding ATB transmitter, at the car wash.
> I've cleaned several BC-348s, an ATB which is now
> in good operation, and [other sets too - names removed]

Just to clarify Dave, you use the word "cleaned" immediately after you
describe washing various sets.  Do you use the word "cleaned" and
"washed" interchangeably?  (I think "yes".)

(Dave S)
> I pull everything that's going to collect water, like the 
> ARC-5's IF cans and dynamotor and clean them seperately.
> I put the wash thingie on "RINSE" and run all the chemicals out
> of the hose.  I almost never pull the high-pressure trigger;
> that blast will do damage and peel paint.  

Question:  Do you use only water, or do you use mild detergent + water?

I have access to an ultrasonic bath.  After reading the various postings
here I'm beginning to consider using that;  perhaps I'll use a mixture
of methylated spirits (which is usually denatured ethyl alcohol, not
methyl alcohol) and de-ionised water (50-50) in the bath.  After that, I
am considering rinsing or brushing with iso-butyl alcohol.  

I was asked to repair a circuit card that had been submerged inside an
electrical control box in a storm.  The water ran down the cable duct
into the box, and when it rose inside the box it shorted 240V across the
connector to this board.  The current  boiled the water inside the two
part connector, and after blackening the (good quality) plastic in the
connector the steam separated the two parts of the connector.

I got there about an hour after this drama.  The card controlled the
air-conditioning in a operating theatre, and the surgeons wanted the a/c
on, if possible.  A replacement card was several days away.

I washed the card for about an hour in water/metho, then cut away the
blackened (carbonised) plastic.  The connector mated well enough, and
(as you will see) with the carbonised plastic gone the 240V didn't arc
across the contacts.  I sprayed the card with a good quantity of
iso-propyl alcohol, then  I dried the card, (warm air) and then left it
in the sun for about a further 30 minutes.

With caution we re-fitted the card and turned on the system.
In short - the card worked for several days, before it was replaced.
I added this account, since it is somewhat parallel to Dave's experience
with washing sets.

Thank you for your informative reply, Dave S.

When I made the first posting I knew I would get several "interesting"
answers, and I would like to thank all who have contributed.  

Here, at the Westlakes Radio Club we have an informative fellow, John
Tranning.
This afternoon John recommended I try hydrogen peroxide to clean the
mild mottling from aluminium chassis.
The concentration? About 25 to 30% w/v. H2O2.

Les,
ex VK2BCU


> 
> 
> 
> ______________________________________________________________
> ARC5 mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/arc5
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:ARC5 at mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> 

-- 
http://www.fastmail.fm - A fast, anti-spam email service.