[Yaesu] FT one plug

[Dr. Gerald N. Johnson]

It may be possible to smear fresh epoxy under all the loose traces and 
stick them back in place, easier than making a new board. They were held 
by a thermosetting resin before. Sometimes a board maker did a bad job 
though or the traces have run hot from high currents feeding AC to the 
filter capacitors (which are now bad) because of the shorted rectifier 
and indeed feeding AC to the radio could have been disastrous since 
integrated circuits tend to fail microseconds after reversed polarity 
supply is applied.

He already has the suitable DC power connector for the back, just takes 
a couple changes, cutting a jumper or two and adding the DC wires and 
that Cinch Jones shell comes off easily for that. Won't be needing that 
jumper for a while and its not hard to reconfigure it to the original, 
or given the time to fix the power supply get another shipped from GB. 
However I don't hold out great hopes for that radio, it may be toast, 
and if not, forever destined to run on external DC.

73, Jerry, K0CQ

On 7/7/2011 2:36 AM, Dr. David Kirkby wrote:
> On 07/ 7/11 03:06 AM, zl3kr wrote:
>> For your info the power supply in my FT-one I believe is the same as
>> used in the FT107.  I have a circuit diagram of it and it is called FP107.
>> It is not a switched mode supply, and I have repaired the first problem
>> in which the Bridge Rectifier had blown, but then the regulator wasn't
>> working. Unfortunately that is where the main problem is, in that it would
>> seem that this PC Board(PB-2117) had been worked on before and the
>> copper was literally
>> falling off.
>
> Alan,
>
> Are you sure the board in the radio is the correct one for the rig? Has it ever
> worked for you?
>
> I don't have time to go through the service manual now, but note that
> hifissb.com have a "Yaesu FT-ONE regulator unit PB-2258A"
>
> http://www.hifissb.com/byaesu-ftone-regulator-unit-pb2258a-p-161.html
>
> Is your "regulator unit" OK? I'm just wondering if someone has put the wrong
> board in following an unsuccessful attempt to get a working rig.
>
> Note hifissb have a number of bits from an FT-ONE
>
> http://www.hifissb.com/yaesu-bftone-c-108_81_92.html
>
> They scrap rigs and sell them for parts. There's a reasonable chance they will
> have what you want. I'm sure it would help if you sent them a photograph of the
> bad  board and of the connector you want.
>
> There's a local ham to me that sent me a big list of "shack clearence" items. I
> thought there was a non-working FT-ONE on there for £100, but just checked and
> noted the FT-ONE is working at £250, so its not going to be practical for you to
> buy that.
>
> You might try asking if they have the board what you want. It is possible they
> have it, but someone has worked on it so they have decided not to sell the
> board. But if yours is in a very bad state, then perhaps they have something
> better than what you have.
>
>
>
>> I have no experience in designing PC Boards but am trying
>> to make up something
>> to do the job, but it has to be exact size to mount in the power supply
>> (mounting holes and
>> component height are a couple of the restrictions.
>
> I'd be very reluctant to use an PCB as a power supply where the tracks are
> falling off. You should ask around locally - there may be someone willing to
> make you a new PCB from the track layout. You have the poor board, but the track
> layout will be in the manual too.
>
> If the board can be removed without desolding things (i.e. its one of the many
> plug-in boards of the FT-ONE), then if you want any photographs from an FT-ONE
> or the board, let me know. I have a good quality camera (Nikon D3) with a Nikon
> macro lens, so can produce decent quality close up pictures.
>
> My experience is that if replacing components on a board from the era of the
> FT-ONE, then modern components will be smaller. I doubt you will have to worry
> too much about restrictions.
>
>> So while I work on that I was hoping to be able to connect an external
>> supply to get the
>> rig going again in the mean time.
>
> Of course the place to do that would normally be on that connector on the rear
> of the rig. If you can't connect internally to the write place, perhaps just a
> couple of wires out might be easiest.
>
>> Alan ZL3KR
>
>