[Vintage-Audio] Conversion Of Vinyl

Mon Apr 21 22:35:00 2003

The McIntosh C-4 and C-8's show up on eBay and they usually go for somewhere
between $75 and $275, depending on condition. There is a catch, though. They
were designed to derive their filament and B+ voltages from a McIntosh power
amp. Consequently, you either have to get these voltages from your existing
tube amp, or build a separate power supply.

Steve, W9QLF
-----Original Message-----
From: Duane Fischer, W8DBF <[email protected]>
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Date: Monday, April 21, 2003 1:39 PM
Subject: Re: [Vintage-Audio] Conversion Of Vinyl

>Steve,
>
>Gee, wouldn't it be nice if you had a moment of sympathy and sent that to
me?
>(patented Fischer smirk) But where might one find one nowadays Steve?
>
>DBF
>
>
>----------
>From: Steven K. Wenger <[email protected]>
>To: [email protected]
>Subject: Re: [Vintage-Audio] Conversion Of Vinyl
>Date: Monday, April 21, 2003 11:20 AM
>
>Greetings,
>
>If you can latch onto an old McIntosh tube preamp (C-4 or C-8), they have
>multiple EQ settings. My McIntosh C-4 has 11 different labeled settings
>(e.g., EUR 78, COL 78, AES, LON LP, etc.).
>
>Steve, W9QLF
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Charlie Dumar <[email protected]>
>To: '[email protected]' <[email protected]>
>Date: Saturday, April 19, 2003 11:37 AM
>Subject: RE: [Vintage-Audio] Conversion Of Vinyl
>
>
>>I use a stand alone deck for my conversions.  I have only 2 bits of
advice.
>>
>>If you have a cable converter connected to the same setup you use for
>recording
>>disconnect it from the system,  If you like to watch cable while recording
>use
>>a different amp.  In my setup there was low hum levels in the recordings
>after
>>much work it was traced to the cable digital box.  Nothing more than a
>ground
>>loop.
>>
>>If you do a lot of mono recordings get another cartridge and head and wire
>it
>>for mono.  The recordings will sound better.
>>
>>If you do any recording of material from 1947 to around 1955 remember that
>>these recordings use a different equalization curve than the ones after
>1955 of
>>so.  As a matter of fact there were 10 or so different equalizations used
>>during the early days.
>>
>>Charlie, W2KNL
>>
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Duane Fischer, W8DBF [SMTP:[email protected]]
>>Sent: 19 April, 2003 11:08
>>To: [email protected]
>>Subject: [Vintage-Audio] Conversion Of Vinyl
>>
>>
>>
>>Greetings All,
>>
>>This is a little too new, but still old, so pardon the stretch.
>>
>>I have been converting vinyl 33 1/3 rpm records to CD format without a
>>computer.
>>I have had extremely good success. However, this procedure is tedious,
time
>>consuming and requires a DAT deck.
>>
>>Are any of you using a stand alone CDR deck wired direct to the primary
>sound
>>system?
>>
>>Here is one little trick that may help some of you salvage an otherwise
>>unrecoverable recording. If a vinyl record has a scratch on it causing the
>>stylus to stick, put a tiny drop of water on it. Let it expand and fill
the
>>grooves. many times this will allow the stylus to track through the area
>>without
>>sticking. However, there may be some noise, as the scratch is still there.
>>
>>I use an outboard graphic equalization unit to minimize specific
>frequencies
>>when recording the vinyl to DAT or CD. Many times you can eliminate, or
>greatly
>>reduce, the noise present from heavy play wear, minor scratches and so
>forth.
>>Keeping in mind, that the depth to which the needle went, and the width of
>the
>>grooves, has changed over the years.
>>
>>Duane W8DBF
>>
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>>
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>>
>
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