[TheForge] TheForge Digest, Vol 165, Issue 6

[bilcol]

I will save adding the metal plate as the backup plan and first try adding
clay.  I will also add a doubler/strap over the crack.  Although I would
like to upgrade to a larger forge someday, it has worked well over the
years.  Much thanks to everyone that made suggestions!

Bill Bohl

-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of J. Petrila
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2017 7:52 PM
To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [TheForge] TheForge Digest, Vol 165, Issue 6

If the pan is all ready cracked and he puts a piece of 1/4" plate inside it
with a firepot mounted in/through the 1/4" plate..  HE will NOT need clay or
any other insulating material..

If he wants it or if he uses the forge without the plate inside it then he
needs the clay or insulator..

JLP Services Inc
6 Kenwood Dr
Rutland, MA 01543-1215

1 (508) 667-5498

On Thu, Oct 26, 2017 at 7:33 PM, barry myers <blmyers647 at gmail.com> wrote:

> You do need to put some kind of clay in the cast iron forge.  Even the 
> steel ones, but certainly the cast iron ones.  If it gets too hot, 
> they will break and it scares the hell out of you and those around.  
> When I had a nice square Champion being used by a newbie and his 
> teacher at a hammer-in, they were really cranking on the blower to get the
steel hot.
> It sounded like a shotgun.
>
> Also, I don't think that water on a cast iron forge is the best idea.  
> A cold drop of water will also cause it to crack.
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