[TheForge] stubborn rivets

[jerry Frost]

Use a pin punch, do NOT use a center punch. A center punch will expand the
rivet making it tighter this is a B-A-D thing.

Can you get at the other end of the rivet? A common enough practice is to
make the hole on  the peened end out of round, a chisel cut will do the
trick. This locks one end of the rivet and improves wear. Cutting a rivet
from the locked end is much more difficult to drive out.

Frosty

-----Original Message-----
From: TheForge [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of CGRAF
Sent: Tuesday, August 9, 2016 7:26 AM
To: terry l. ridder; Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: Re: [TheForge] stubborn rivets




Option #2 would have been my first choice .

Red hot and then punch the center should collapse the rivet edge freeing it
from the hole..

If it is just rusted in p[lace that should do it.


Drilling out the center and using the same punch might do it.


Try some sort of rust buster( whatever your favorite flavor) and try the
ball pein again?


Mike Graf

On 8/9/2016 9:26 AM, terry l. ridder wrote:
> hello
>
> I need some suggestions on removing rivets.
> the leaf spring brackets on a Ford f150 are rusted out.
> in attempting to replace them with new bolt on replacements
> i have cut the head off of one side of the rivet.
> several of the rivets just come out with a tap from a ball pein hammer.
> i have several which do not want to come out.
> these are 1/2 inch rivets. conflicting stories that these are cold
> formed rivets & these are hot formed rivets.
> The "button" which i cut off were roughly the size of a US quarter.
>
> I would like to find a simple & elegant way to remove these pesky
> rivets.
>
> I have an oxy-propane torch, pneumatic air hammer, sawzall, etc.
>
> my least desired solution is to fire up the torch and burn out the
> center of the rivet.
>
> my 2nd least desired solution is to use a welding tip on the torch and
> heat the surround metal to allow the rivet body to fall out.
>
> suggestions welcomed.
>

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