[TheForge] Rivet question

[Peter Fels & Phoebe Palmer]

When it’s installed.

On Mar 2, 2015, at 8:51 AM, wmullett at bright.net wrote:

Post images please.

---- Original message ----
> Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2015 08:44:49 -0800
> From: "TheForge" <theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net> (on behalf of Peter Fels & Phoebe Palmer <artgawk at thegrid.net>)
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Rivet question  
> To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> 
> Clearly the right advice Roger.
> And i did that, just one swat too many with the larger hammer. Used a little 4 oz hammer to peen the edges down and texture the commercial rivet head.
> I confess this was a bit of a rhetorical question to begin with,
> but i did make the mistake ( not the first time), TheForge was kinda dead,
> and i’d hoped someone had an after the fact solution.
> This afternoon i’m off in my old rustbucket flatbed to deliver my wife’s Chinese dragon commission.
> I think i’m going to be a bit overweight, but that’s what trucks are for…truck willing.
> It’s got a 2 piece ferrocement body, covered by almost 8000 shaped and glazed pieces of ceramic ( scales, teeth, eyeballs, etc.). She has almost 4 years in it. I’m very pleased that they have the responsibility
> of installing it ( crane and all).
> 
> On Mar 2, 2015, at 6:19 AM, roger degner <781 at means.net> wrote:
> 
> I was always told riveting use light hammer fast to upset edge of material.
> Use slower heavy hammer to forge or move the center of the material.
> On Mar 1, 2015 11:47 PM, "jerry Frost" <akfrosty at mtaonline.net> wrote:
> 
>> I use a 16oz ball pein on large, over 5/16" iron rivets. Does a treadle
>> hammer rivet set save a lot of time?
>> 
>> Sorry Pete I couldn't help it. <snicker>
>> 
>> Jer
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: TheForge [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
>> Peter
>> Fels & Phoebe Palmer
>> Sent: Sunday, March 1, 2015 8:20 PM
>> To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
>> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Rivet question
>> 
>> Thanks Jerry and Bob.
>> Yeah, got impatient and used the treadle hammer to rough set it in.
>> 
>> On Mar 1, 2015, at 8:20 PM, Bob Ehrenberger <eforge at centurytel.net> wrote:
>> 
>> From: TheForge [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
>> Peter
>> Fels & Phoebe Palmer
>> Sent: Sunday, March 1, 2015 2:20 PM
>> To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
>> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Test
>> 
>> OK.BS question:
>> I was assembling one of my  jointed bottle openers ( one that i had to take
>> back apart and forge on some more to get the parts to work right), and
>> after
>> i'd set down and headed the 1/4" brass rivet, i had to spend 15 minutes
>> wiggling it back and forth to free it up.
>> Both holes were hot punched and the mating surfaces were hand forged so
>> nothing was accurately aligned.
>> What's the best, quickest way to keep the parts moving freely after the
>> rivet is set down?
>> 
>> -- Reply---
>> The best thing is to prevent the rivet from getting too tight in the first
>> place.
>> If you put a piece of card stock between the parts before riveting you can
>> remove it after riveting and there should be some clearance.  Also when
>> setting the rivet the lighter the hammer you use the easier it is to keep
>> the upset at the very end.
>> 
>> Bob Ehrenberger
>> Shelbyville, MO
>> 
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