[TheForge] Arc wekding advice sought

[Bruce .]

I'm not a weldor and can't speak for springs or safety.

That said, my understanding is that springs are typically tempered to
something in the purple -- which would be in excess of 500 F.

The significance of that to this discussion is that in repairing anvils, we
typically have pre-heated the anvil to 500 F or below (over a wood fire).
After welding, we may re-heat to the same temp of necessary, and we let the
anvil cool slowly.  The idea is NOT to ruin the temper and yet to get a
good weld.  Our success rate has been very good -- the resulting re-welded
edges and corners don't break off in use.

Now, whether that info is relevant to Mike's original question, I'm not the
one to say.


Bruce
NJ

On Mon, Jun 1, 2015 at 12:22 PM, Dan Brewer <danqualman at gmail.com> wrote:

> The steel in springs normaly do not take well to arc welding.  If you are
> just trying to attach something to it that will not injure you if it breaks
> off it will be fine If you are making something that will couse injury when
> it breaks use a different metarerial.  You will need to remove the temper
> of the material to get a good weld.  So heat to cherry red and cover with
> vermiculite untill cool reheat to 400 to 800 deg Weld .  cover with
> vermiculite untill cool reheat to cherry and quench in oil/  The spring
> should retain its hardnes.
>
> On Mon, Jun 1, 2015 at 8:07 AM, Ron Childers <ron at munlaw.net> wrote:
>
> > Larry is right; Did you "V" it, preheat and post heat? I would have
> > thought DC reverse polarity with 7018 should work if you weave in hot
> then
> > slowly cool. That's a pretty thick heat sink
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: TheForge [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
> > Larry Brown
> > Sent: Monday, June 01, 2015 5:00 AM
> > To: mspencer at tallships.ca; 'Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA'
> > Subject: Re: [TheForge] Arc wekding advice sought
> >
> > Maybe try pre-heating the bar to around 400 and let it cool slow. You
> > could also try pre and post heating with the slow cool. After that you
> > could try a dis-similar metals rod usually stainless with a high
> strength L
> > Brown
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: TheForge [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
> > Mike Spencer
> > Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2015 7:33 PM
> > To: theforge at mailman.qth.net
> > Subject: [TheForge] Arc wekding advice sought
> >
> >
> > Trying to make something from big-truck helper spring material.
> > That's the more or less Z- or chicane-shaped, maybe 2"x3" in the middle,
> > tapering to maybe 3"x3/4" at the long end, close to 4' overall length.
> >
> > I can make a very nice looking weld with 7018, DC straight polarity
> > (electrode negative).  But the base material under the weld seems to
> become
> > exceptionally brittle, such that the whole weld bead can be easily broken
> > off of the base metal, leaving a fine-grained, clean gray fracture.  What
> > appears to be a thin layer of the base metal adheres to the broken-off
> weld
> > bead.
> >
> >    + Am I doing something wrong?
> >
> >    + Is there a trick to welding this material?
> >
> >    + Anybody know what this material is?  It cuts easily on my little
> >      bandsaw.
> >
> >    + Is welding to this kind of spring alloy known to be a problem or
> >      outright impossible without fancy industrial gear that I don't
> >      have?
> >
> >
> > - Mike
> >
> > --
> > Michael Spencer                  Nova Scotia, Canada       .~.
> >                                                            /V\
> > mspencer at tallships.ca                                     /( )\
> > http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/                        ^^-^^
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