[TheForge] OT: My floor is poured: the saga

[Peter Fels & Phoebe Palmer]

If you have clay rich soils, they will confound most conventional drainage solutions over the span of time.
Again, my advice, gained by involuntary education, is to over compensate by an order of magnitude.

On Sep 19, 2014, at 11:50 AM, Dan Brewer wrote:

The filal grading is also very important.  Do some looking on the web to
see how other folks have done the same thing.  One of the products is a
dimpled plastic that is put next to the wall after it is sealed .  The
dimples provide a free flowing pathway for water to easily move to the
drain pipe.  Gravel with a barier of lanscape fabric will keep the fine
soil from cloging the drain pipe .

On Fri, Sep 19, 2014 at 11:35 AM, jerry Frost <akfrosty at mtaonline.net>
wrote:

> That's usually right but in some cases impermeable soils can be used as a
> water barrier. In Andy's case though you're absolutely right, basically
> French drain the whole perimeter. Good point bringing it up my brain gets
> stuck on single issues like the drain tile and forgets the other things.
> 
> Lastly would be grading the surrounding ground to drain away from the
> house.
> Well, right now my brain says that's the lastly issue but . . .
> 
> Jer
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: TheForge [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
> wmullett at bright.net
> Sent: Friday, September 19, 2014 4:36 AM
> To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] OT: My floor is poured: the saga
> 
> Jerry,
> 
> Actually, the backfill is very important too.  It needs to allow the water
> to get to the drain.  Don't ever put excavated material back against the
> basement wall unless its all sand or gravel.  If it's clay, you might have
> just damned of the drain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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