[TheForge] TheForge Digest, Vol 125, Issue 3

[Wayne Ackman]

thanks for the pointers.  I'd like to try this.

Wayne

> James Binnion <mailto:jbin at well.com>
> June 27, 2014 at 3:05 PM
> Mcmaster Carr sells carnuba and beeswax. Melt them in a 1 part carnuba 
> and 3 parts beeswax in a double boiler and then mix into 3 parts 
> turpentine.
>
>
>
> James Binnion
> jbin at well.com
>
>
>
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> Wayne Ackman <mailto:stryker at vulcanpro.com>
> June 26, 2014 at 7:21 PM
> We applied the permalac today.  I did tell them to wax it once a week.
> I told them to find pure carnuba as it is  made from palm oil, I think.
> Didn't have a source for them tho.  I never thought about mixing it 
> with beeswax.
> but it  looks like we are on track
>
>
> James Binnion <mailto:jbin at well.com>
> June 26, 2014 at 6:26 PM
> One thought in a different direction. Wax it, the wax will need to be 
> reapplied on a regular basis but if you use beeswax and carnuba mix 
> you have a food safe coating and any coating is going to fail in that 
> environment so wax it once a week and make it part of the maintenance 
> done by the staff.
>
> Jim
>
>
> James Binnion
> jbin at well.com
>
>
>
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> Wayne Ackman <mailto:stryker at vulcanpro.com>
> June 25, 2014 at 6:28 PM
> I have always used lacquer myself.  Thanks for the insight on your PU 
> experience.
> I believe they have decided to use Permalac.
>
> Thanks to everyone for your insights.  TheForge is always my go to for 
> confusing issues.
>
> Wayne
>
>
> Andy Gladish <mailto:anjgladish at gmail.com>
> June 25, 2014 at 8:52 AM
> Not a big fan of polyurethane on metal- it's kind of like powder 
> coating in
> that it's ok til it's compromised, then you might as well strip it and
> start all over again.
> I've done quite a bit of restaurant work and work in the homes of
> restaurant owners and managers, and my go to finish for non stainless 
> areas
> is Sculpt Noveau's Insta-Black, which is a selenium based cold blacking.
> It's very nice to work with, you can get it anywhere from an antique brown
> to a full-on black, depending on how fanatic you are with prep.
> Then, the kicker is to seal it with Permalac, a lacquer developed for
> outdoor use over patinas on metal sculpture, from the same company.
> I often use rattle can lacquer from the hardware store, but the important
> thing is that lacquer and polyurethane are two very different animals. 
> Once
> you use lacquer, you probably won't use PU again on steel.
> Hope things work out for you!
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