[TheForge] TheForge Digest, Vol 125, Issue 3

[jerry Frost]

Carnuba is hard and expensive, I imagine it's brittle if applied too thick.
I have pieces that have been hanging in the weather some 16 years now with
no rust. The big secret though is most of the outdoor pieces were finished
with Alex Bealers recipe from " The Art of Blacksmithing" but I used
paraffin rather than bees wax. The carnuba finished pieces are holding up
just as well for the same time.

I thought the trees were called Carnuba Palms but no, I can't remember what
they're called long enough to type it in, I'd have to cut and paste so see
link below.

Google says. Palm trees.

http://happysunshineland.hubpages.com/hub/WHAT-IS-CARNAUBA-WAX-AND-WHERE-DOE
S-IT-COME-FROM

Jer

-----Original Message-----
From: TheForge [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Peter
Fels & Phoebe Palmer
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2014 5:58 PM
To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: Re: [TheForge] TheForge Digest, Vol 125, Issue 3

Wayne:
Years ago i'd read that pure carnuba ( It's not from palm oil) is rather
brittle and expensive.
So you need a commercial food safe wax that's high in carnuba wax ( it's the
hard component in wax products.)

On Jun 26, 2014, at 6:21 PM, Wayne Ackman wrote:

We applied the permalac today.  I did tell them to wax it once a week.
I told them to find pure carnuba as it is  made from palm oil, I think.
Didn't have a source for them tho.  I never thought about mixing it with
beeswax.
but it  looks like we are on track

> James Binnion <mailto:jbin at well.com>
> June 26, 2014 at 6:26 PM
> One thought in a different direction. Wax it, the wax will need to be
reapplied on a regular basis but if you use beeswax and carnuba mix you have
a food safe coating and any coating is going to fail in that environment so
wax it once a week and make it part of the maintenance done by the staff.
> 
> Jim
> 
> 
> James Binnion
> jbin at well.com
> 
> 
> 
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> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email 
> list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Wayne Ackman 
> <mailto:stryker at vulcanpro.com> June 25, 2014 at 6:28 PM I have always 
> used lacquer myself.  Thanks for the insight on your PU experience.
> I believe they have decided to use Permalac.
> 
> Thanks to everyone for your insights.  TheForge is always my go to for
confusing issues.
> 
> Wayne
> 
> 
> Andy Gladish <mailto:anjgladish at gmail.com> June 25, 2014 at 8:52 AM 
> Not a big fan of polyurethane on metal- it's kind of like powder 
> coating in that it's ok til it's compromised, then you might as well 
> strip it and start all over again.
> I've done quite a bit of restaurant work and work in the homes of 
> restaurant owners and managers, and my go to finish for non stainless 
> areas is Sculpt Noveau's Insta-Black, which is a selenium based cold
blacking.
> It's very nice to work with, you can get it anywhere from an antique 
> brown to a full-on black, depending on how fanatic you are with prep.
> Then, the kicker is to seal it with Permalac, a lacquer developed for 
> outdoor use over patinas on metal sculpture, from the same company.
> I often use rattle can lacquer from the hardware store, but the 
> important thing is that lacquer and polyurethane are two very 
> different animals. Once you use lacquer, you probably won't use PU again
on steel.
> Hope things work out for you!
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