[TheForge] Temper colors

[martin marks]

HA! I am sure the metal doesn't care. I was just letting everyone know what I happened to use. I didn't think the quality of the oil made a difference other than the fact that it is a "food grade" oil. I will keep all this in mind when I buy a bottle of something from the store. Thanks again for the feedback. I hope to see you guys soon. 
--------------------------------------------
On Fri, 1/10/14, Bruce . <freemab222 at gmail.com> wrote:

 Subject: Re: [TheForge] Temper colors
 To: "Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
 Date: Friday, January 10, 2014, 2:00 PM
 
 Considering the tiny amount of oil
 you use on a blade, you can use any
 non-toxic oil you prefer.  For example, one does not
 want to ingest a lot
 of mineral oil, but there would be no harm in using it to
 finish a blade
 because the tiny amount that would come through in the food
 would cause no
 harm.  The same is true for petroleum jelly or even
 paraffin wax.  Note
 that I am not advocating the use of these materials for
 protecting a blade,
 but am just commenting they'd do the user no harm.
 
 As for vegetable oils, there are basically three
 types:  saturated,
 monounsaturated, and polyunsaturated.  Saturated oils,
 which include lard,
 coconut and palm oils, as well as fully hydrogenated
 vegetable oils, won't
 "dry" (in the sense of paint drying).  Unsaturated oils
 can dry, but
 sometimes won't depending upon the total composition of the
 oil.
 
 It's been said here before, but is worth repeating, that
 what is sold in
 stores as "boiled linseed oil" (a classic drying oil) should
 never be used
 on items for food-contact.  It really isn't boiled at
 all, but rather a
 drying agent is added to it, and that agent often contains a
 toxic metal,
 such as cobalt.
 
 I have read that non- (or low-) toxic metals like iron can
 be used as
 drying agents, but know nothing about it.
 
 I believe that  polyunsaturated oil that has been
 "boiled" (think, "heated
 till it fumes or smokes") will dry fine, based upon my
 experience oiling
 ironwork and heating it to cure it.  However, ordinary
 polyunsaturated oil
 will turn a deep brown when heated (say, 350F for an hour)
 that looks shiny
 black on black iron, but which may be unacceptable for your
 beautiful knife
 blade.  I don't know whether this is also true if you
 simply heat the oil
 and then apply it -- as I've never tried it, myself.
 
 Bruce
 NJ
 
 
 On Fri, Jan 10, 2014 at 12:14 PM, Ron Childers <ron at munlaw.net>
 wrote:
 
 > For the difference in price it is doubtful the steel
 cares what the olives
 > do in their spare time. Generic store brands are much
 cheaper and mixing
 > with bees wax makes for a nontoxic preservative. I've
 heard it is
 > essentially the same as Bore Butter. Some of our
 chemists can probably fill
 > in the blanks ..
 >
 > -----Original Message-----
 > From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:
 > theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net]
 On Behalf Of martin marks
 > Sent: Friday, January 10, 2014 10:23 AM
 > To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
 > Subject: Re: [TheForge] Temper colors
 >
 > I am so glad I have you guys to ask these questions. I
 put some extra
 > virgin olive oil on it yesterday before I gave it to my
 friend. He was very
 > happy with the work. Thanks again for the advice. I
 will get some good oil
 > for my shop so I can apply it as soon as I'm finished
 buffing.
 > --------------------------------------------
 >
 >
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