[TheForge] Concrete forms OT, but important... for me anyhow.
Andrew Vida
osan at netlabs.net
Wed Aug 13 04:45:22 EDT 2014
On 8/12/14, 6:59 PM, jerry Frost wrote:
> I was a little surprised watching your video, you don't sound like a crazed
> maniac like I thought you would. Go figger eh?
Oh trust me, I am. The very fact that I undertook this in the first
place is proof of that. It's 4:45 AM and I cannot sleep for worry
now... Neighbor is blck mason - I will talk to him about doing block
work instead, but not sure what he will say. He saw this once and
freaked out... thought the building would fall. It isn't going anywhere.
>
> I had to Google Speedblock and still only have a rough idea about it.
> However I agree with Pete they'd make it really easy to build your pony
> walls. I'd certainly go more than 12" on the footer though, 24" min. 32" or
> more would be WAY better. 32" is double the length of a cinderblock so
> building pilasters around the stilts would be a snap.
>
> A nice level smooth footer would make it pretty easy to block up a wall even
> with the stilts. It's nothing a carbide blade in a skill saw wouldn't fit,
> then you could build the block around and up them. Easy peasy, the only
> thing I'd wonder about is what lousy rebar those jacks make, they're smooth
> and the concrete wouldn't bond well. If you poured the footer a little wider
> around each stilt you could just lay cinder block pilasters around them and
> let the extra width of reinforced concrete make them not bonding not matter.
>
> Once you get the old footer broken and cleaned off the only thing I see
> needs doing is installing rebar ties if none are left hanging. Drill and
> epoxy would do that but I HATE drilling overhead. Glad it's not my project
> though I do have to say I wish we lived within visiting distance, it'd be a
> done deal by now.
>
> Jer
> -----Original Message-----
> From: TheForge [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Peter
> Fels & Phoebe Palmer
> Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2014 12:28 PM
> To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Concrete forms OT, but important... for me anyhow.
>
> Looks like a lot of grunt work!
> Once your 12" footer is poured and leveled with rebar sticking up..
> The speedblock will fit right in around your vertical steel members with
> ease. No problem.
> The speedblock is easy to cut with a carbide grit or diamond masonry blade
> in an old skillsaw.
> Forming isn't necessary ... and would be difficult with the external
> clearances shown in the video.
>
> On Aug 12, 2014, at 1:08 PM, Andrew Vida wrote:
>
> Can't lay conderblock because of the columns holding the house up. As far as
> I can see, it has to be a poured concrete affair. Look at this and you will
> see what I mean:
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DOVT7uZMQLE&list=UUMXX2OBQ46aG0DEdhK04gIA
>
>
>
> On 8/12/14, 3:50 PM, Peter Fels & Phoebe Palmer wrote:
>> Speedblocks are a bit different Jerry. They come with no knock out ends,
> but rather the ends are tapered.
>> The surface bonding cement is GRC...or fiberGlass Reinforced Concrete with
> a lot of acrylic plastic additive in place of most of the water. That system
> saved laying the block in grout and, of course , forming.
>> I actually had a building inspector look down inside a structurally
> critical corner before we grouted , and say...
>> "Peter, that's too much steel. You have to leave some room for the
> cement".
>> Ironically, now, years later, i have to drill a number of horizontal
>> bolt holes through that area and don't look forward to it. We used a high
> strength grout too.
>> A big walnut log is going to be installed as a corner post there.
>>
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