[TheForge] Concrete forms OT, but important... for me anyhow.

[Peter Fels & Phoebe Palmer]

Snap-ties used to be pretty standard.
In  wet or corrosive atmospheres there's some long term consideration of moisture getting behind the snap tie plug and the rust resulting in expansion cracking.

On Aug 12, 2014, at 10:45 AM, Richardson, Grover wrote:

Many professionals will use wires spaced about every 2 feet from plywood form to the other.  This helps keep the wood from bowing.

Sent from the Groverville ipad

> On Aug 12, 2014, at 10:06 AM, "Dan Brewer" <danqualman at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> The plywood will work if and only if you provide a framework of 2X4s on the
> outside with clips to keep the sides form bowing.  Along with a lot of
> bracing.  5 feet of rise is a lot of weight.  Your local masonary store
> will have the form clips you will need to use.  Used motor oil is a viable
> release agent.  Brace more than you think is necassary.  Do more research
> on line for how much steel you need to put in the wall. Post some pictures
> for us to see,
> 
> Dan in Auburn
> 
> 
>> On Sun, Aug 10, 2014 at 5:20 PM, Andrew Vida <osan at netlabs.net> wrote:
>> 
>> The excavation under the house is now more or less complete.  I removed
>> about 400 yards of clay from under and just outside the house.
>> 
>> The house is now standing on 18 high strength stilts that I fabricated
>> from drill string.  It is a weird sight, what with all that daylight coming
>> in from under the old footings.
>> 
>> My question is this: would 5/8 plywood suffice for concrete forms? The
>> tallest section to be poured is about 8 feet, about 4 feet wide.  The rest
>> is averaging about 5 feet.  I will be using 12" snap ties, on 24" centers
>> with two layers of 2x4 criss crossing per the usual practice.
>> 
>> I was going to use 3/4 OSB, but am now having some second thoughts because
>> of the tongue and grooved edges.  3/4 ply is painfully expensive, 5/8 being
>> notably less costly.  My concern here is whether the 5/8 has the strength.
>> 
>> The damned lumber for the forms is almost as $$ as the concrete itself and
>> the wife is having a heart attack at the costs.  I'm trying to be as
>> efficient with the money as possible, but do not want to make the mistake
>> of using insufficient materials.  A blow-out would be very bad, as you
>> might surmise.
>> 
>> One other question: because I am forming to the irregular bottom of an
>> existing footing I was going to rough-trace the profile onto wood, cut with
>> a scroll saw, and fit it that way.  Has anyone here done anything like this
>> before and if so, how did you build to the footing?  Since I have couple
>> hundred tons of clay handy, I was thinking I might use it as a sealant to
>> close up the little crannies at the top.
>> 
>> Thanks much,
>> 
>>   -Andy
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