[TheForge] Gas heater question

[Dan Brewer]

Buying the correct jets would allow you to return the heater to propane if
you wanted.  If the heater is set up to use both fuel sources there might
be a second set of jets in the heater.

Dan in Auburn


On Wed, Nov 20, 2013 at 5:37 AM, Andrew Vida <osan at netlabs.net> wrote:

> Because we have gas wells and all the free gas we can burn, I am
> installing gas heaters in various locations in the house.  The 10' deep pit
> I dug under the house (was a 2' crawl prior) has two large openings to the
> outside air and the bedroom was cold last night.  I will install a heater
> temporarily and plug the holes as best I can for now, but I doubt that will
> suffice when it is 10* out.
>
> My question is this: I have one more gas heater on hand - a wall unit I
> picked up at auction on the ultra-cheap - but it is jetted for propane.
>  Can I re-jet for natural?  If so, can I just drill out the existing jets
> or does it behoove me to buy factory   made? Since this isn't a gas forge
> and I am not in the mood to burn down a second house, I want to be more
> certain of what I am doing.
>
> Any help is greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks.
>
>     -ND
> On 10/22/13, 4:17 PM, Bob wrote:
>
>>     I don't have a solution for the heating process but could tempil
>> sticks tell you when you have reached the desired temperature?
>>
>> Bob Willman
>> The Eagle's Anvil
>> Bowling Green, Ohio
>> WB8NQW
>>
>> To the kindly influence of Christianity we owe that degree of civil
>> freedom, and political and social happiness, which mankind now
>> enjoys…Whenever the pillars of Christianity shall be overthrown,
>> our present republican forms of government – and all blessings
>> which flow from them – must fall with them.
>>
>> Jedediah Morse
>>
>> On 10/21/2013 6:24 PM, Bruce . wrote:
>>
>>> I am altering the eye shape of a few commercial needles.  They're too
>>> brittle to work without normalizing, but onc
>>> e normalized, they bend just fine.
>>>
>>> Now I need them hard again.  Well, dunking in water while at a red heat
>>> works for that -- but leaves them more brittle than ever.
>>>
>>> A tempering operation (to purple or blue, probably) is quite easy on a
>>> chisel, but even SEEING the colors on a needle is a challenge. For one
>>> thing, there's no good surface to polish.
>>>
>>> I've tried a couple methods, all without success -- my toaster over
>>> doesn't
>>> get hot enough, like, maybe 450 F, despite what the dial says. (520 F =
>>> purple, 540 F = blue, 590 F = peacock, according to one reference.)  I
>>> tried heating an iron griddle to these temperatures and leaving the
>>> needle
>>> on it for about 5 minutes -- no luck.
>>>
>>> I considered using a salt or solder bath, but find no appropriate salt
>>> and
>>> that I'd need 80/20 to 85/15 lead/tin solder -- which is not readily
>>> available -- to get a liquid bath of the right temperature.
>>>
>>> I'm considering a sand bath or a furnace, using a thermocouple to monitor
>>> temperature, but as you can see, this is getting increasingly complicated
>>> for what should be a rather simple task.
>>>
>>> Hence, I'm soliciting suggestions how to temper a needle.  Any notions?
>>>
>>> Bruce
>>> NJ
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>>
>>
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