[TheForge] rigid vs. springy steel
Bruce .
freemab222 at gmail.com
Thu Jul 25 08:50:34 EDT 2013
Thanks, but I think that's the wrong direction. Think "thin prybar"
and you're on track. The shingle tools HD lists are WAY overkill.
I'm actually thinking of checking a couple dollar stores -- some of
those little Chinese tools are worthwhile -- for a dollar!
I'm just thinking it would be nice to use some 16-gauge spring stock
to make this thing -- if only it wouldn't be springy when finished.
Not to worry. I can use my prybar for the job. It's just that I'm
enough of a klutz that I think I'll mess up less with a thinner bar.
On Thu, Jul 25, 2013 at 5:20 AM, Larry Brown <lp.brown at verizon.net> wrote:
>
> Have you looked at shingle removal tools? They may work or you may be able
> to steal parts off one to do what you want
>
> Larry Brown
>
>
>
> At 05:06 AM 7/25/2013 -0400, you wrote:
>>
>> Here's a question you metal munchers might be able to field:
>>
>> I have had a few applications in which I need thin but rigid steel.
>> What steel is best?
>>
>> Consider for example a corkscrew -- it's a helix that holds its shape,
>> it's rigid. But a spring with a comparable shape is flexible. What's
>> the difference? I suspect that it's simply the relative dimensions --
>> a spring is relatively thinner wire wrapped on a relatively larger
>> mandrel, and vise-verse the corkscrew.
>>
>> But is that all there is too it, or is there a metallurgical difference as
>> well?
>>
>> Although I've contemplated making corkscrews, the immediate
>> application is a prybar for roofing and siding nails and similar
>> stuff. It would be flat, like these:
>>
>> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Dasco-Pro-Pry-Bar-Set-3-Piece-91/202585548#.UfDoym1cWgw
>> but of thinner steel. (If I can't make it thinner, I'll just use a
>> commercial one.)
>>
>> I'd like it as thin as possible for a number of reasons, but I don't
>> want more than minimal flex to the thing. So I'm wondering what steel
>> to use.
>>
>> I have, BTW, considered using thin steel and putting longitudinal
>> bends ("ribs" or "nerves" or "corrugations" -- whatever you want to
>> call them -- as are used in larger HVAC ducts to prevent oilcanning of
>> the large flats) in it, but this partially defeats the purpose, as the
>> result would effectively be thicker -- so why not use thicker metal
>> and be done with it?
>>
>> This is not any sort of critical problem, but I've had similar
>> problems before and left them unaddressed. This time I thought I'd
>> ask....
>>
>> --
>> Bruce
>> NJ
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>
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--
Bruce
NJ
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