[TheForge] Jet tailstock disassembly?

[Bruce .]

Great minds think alike.  I was thinking the tubing-sleeve protector
for the threads might be a good idea.  I'd also suggested in private
email to Andy the use of both a left-handed cobalt drill and a
screw-extractor.

I didn't make that email public because I lack the experience to back it up.

As for twisting the belt (a great idea, BTW), does that really work
with v-belt?  I have a couple of link belts on my lathe, and my
temptation would be to temporarily cannibalize one of them for the
drill press, as it might be easier to twist them.  (Of course, in that
case a piece of HMWV plastic between the belt halves, as Frosty
suggests, would be essential, as a link belt would tear itself to bits
if it rubbed on itself.)  I'm wondering, though, if some sort of round
belt might be just the ticket -- a rope, for example.  You'd have to
loop the rope and splice it to itself to make a belt of it, unless you
could get by with a knot in the middle.

On Thu, Jul 4, 2013 at 2:23 PM, Peter Fels & Phoebe Palmer
<artgawk at thegrid.net> wrote:
> That's really good Jerry! Belt flip has me thinking ..Duh!
> Your father must have been something.
> It occurs to me that one might use a short piece of tubing to protect the threads and help hold the bit to center,
> if lacking the reverse twist carbide drill and dealing with a skewed break surface.
>
> On Jul 4, 2013, at 10:55 AM, Jerry Frost wrote:
>
> Hardened or not it's not that difficult to remove provided the femail threads arent' too buggered and the bolt end isn't too buggered. just chuck it in the drill press and use a smaller carbide left handed drill bit. It'll bite the broken bolt and turn it right out. A cobalt bit might do it but if it chatters in the hole and buggers the threaded hole it changes the game.
>
> We did this whenever possible, just drill for an easy out but use a left handed bit, it it works put the easy out back in the drawer if it doesn't use the easy out. It's a non-problem. Seriously, even if the drill press doesn't have a reverse just cross the belt and it'll turn backwards. Even if you have to put a little piece of HMWV plastic between the belt halves where they want to rub, thin plastic cutting boards are cheap, really cheap.
>
> This isn't even thinking outside of the box, then again Father had a really large box to think in and I learned a lot in his thought box. Just don't over think things, a person can imagine insurmountable problems where none exist.
>
> Jer
>
>
> On 7/4/2013 5:24 AM, Paul Sperbeck wrote:
>> If the broken set screw is hardened, it will be a problem drilling it
>> out. I don't know what size it is but perhaps you can drill around it
>> with a small hole saw, then clean up the hole and tap it for a larger
>> size that you can then drill out for a more appropriate set screw.
>>
>> I have used pipe taps in holes like this and then just turned a solid
>> plug to pipe OD then threaded it, when these are screwed in the tapered
>> thread prevents it from going to deep and the addition of a little
>> loctite will keep it there for longer than the lathe will last. You can
>> also drill it for the smaller set screw while it is in the lathe.
>>
>> If the set screw is used to  guide the ram as I thought you described
>> it, consider using a half dog set screw as a replacement.
>>
>> see:
>> http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/26085?searchMode=productSearch&rfqXref=&rfqKeyword=&rfqId=&rfqLineId=&zipcode=&filterByStore=
>>
>> paul
>>
>> On 07/04/2013 07:34 AM, Andrew Vida wrote:
>>> As I suspected, the set screw was broken.  Probably a bad unit, failed
>>> when assembler over-tightened, and there we are.  I've not removed it
>>> yet.  Need to figure how to fix it to the mill... or just try to drill
>>> it by hand, though that option is not my first choice.
>>>
>
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-- 
Bruce
NJ