[TheForge] While we're spring cleaning - chisel handles

[David E. Smucker]

The handle method I teach in my woodworking tool class at the John C.
Campbell Folk School is similar to Andy's first method but with some
important differences.  We call it hot setting handles.  Don't use this
method if you want to remove the handle, because it is almost impossible
without cutting the ferrule.  No shoulder is necessary with this method.  I
like to use steel ferrules and generally make the from thin wall conduct. (
EMT)  3/4 size works for most tools.  After placing the ferrule on the
hardwood handle you need to step drill the hole for the tang.  It is very
important that the hole be deeper than the length of tang you plan to set.
2 or 3 drill sizes is all you need.  Failure to over drill the hole will
always result in handle splitting.  
To set the handle place the tool in the vise with soft jaws.  Even wood soft
jaws will work.  Tang is pointing up.  Now heat the tip tang of the tool and
just the tip, red hot with a torch.  Drive the handle on and watch that it
doesn't pop off because of gas generation.  (You may have to tap it a second
or third time.)    Once the handle is set, place the working end of the tool
in water to prevent the retained heat from drawing the temper.  (You have
already heat-treated and tempered the tool before placing the handle on.)
This hot setting make a supper shrink fit between the wood and the steel
tang and should remain that way for the life of the handle.

Dave Smucker
Brasstown, NC

-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Vida
Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2013 11:03 PM
To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: Re: [TheForge] While we're spring cleaning - chisel handles



On 2/15/2013 10:51 PM, Craig Schaefer wrote:
> While I was cleaning out a toolbox, I ran across a socket chisel with
> no handle.   Looked around the shop and found a suitable piece of
> zebra wood and fashioned rough handle. How are the wood handles and 
> chisel sockets supposed to be held together?

There are three methods for fixingwooden handles to chisels of which I am
familiar.  The most common is the tapered tang and shoulder.  Drill an
appropriately sized hole in the wood and drive the handle onto the tapered
tang until it seats against the shoulder.  Such handles should always be
ferruled to prevent splitting.

The other way is the pure socket where the taper of the chisel is
comparatively long with a low angle.  I do not know whether they are
retained in the same basic way as metal tapers where a non-releasing
arrangement is obtained when the coefficient of static friction is greater
than the tangent of the taper angle, self-releasing otherwise.

I have found in many such chisels a bur at the opening but am not sure if
these are put there on purpose to bite into the handle to retain it or are
the result of abusive ninnies hammering on the bare socket.  The thought
makes my head hurt.  In any event, such handles must fit precisely in order
to stay put, unless one uses a very long and narrow taper.

The third style is a hybrid where the socket is a separate piece from the
chisel, which has a shoulder and narrow, pointy tapered tang.  The socket
slips over the tang and against the shoulder.  The taper of the handle is
driven onto the tang and inside the socket, which is something like a large
and relatively heavy, tapered ferrule.  The tang presses outward on the
wood, seating the handle very tightly both in the socket and on the tang.
There is also a shoulder often cut on the handle itself such that when it is
driven hard it will seat against the end of the socket before the end of the
handle within the socket seats against the shoulder on the chisel.  This
provides the best of both worlds and I have always preferred this
arrangement.  Years ago I had occasion to make a 3" slick this way.  Seemed
to work well enough.


   I can make the bevel
> match and knock the socket over the wood and get a good friction fit, 
> but should it be held with anything like epoxy or ?

No glue necessary and not desirable because someone, some day, will need to
change it.  Besides, if a mallet is ever used, for example if it is a firmer
chisel used in chopping mortises, the epoxy will fail in no time.

>I know they're supposed to be able to come  apart for different length 
>of handles for the job at hand, unless one  has enough of the same size 
>chisel for all the handle  lengths.........

I've never heard this before.  The handle on a chisel must be absolutely
firmly affixed.  It is a matter of safety for one thing and of tool
efficiency.  In operation the tool must be very predictable in the path it
is going to take through the wood.  A handle that is loose to even
imperceptible degrees will diminish that predictability and as such poses a
very definite safety hazard in a manner similar to that posed by a dull
edge.
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