[TheForge] Advice for a beginner.

[Jerry Frost]

Carrie: Horns are a pretty recent addition to anvils, you don't need one to
do almost any normal forgings. Give this a try, draw the ends down to
uniform points. Bring them to a medium orange heat and extend them off the
edge of your anvil, give the end a gentle tap and slide it out a bit, do it
again. What will happen is basic blacksmithing, any steel unsupported will
bend so you're gradually bending the end of the points and when it's about
1/4 full turn draw it up onto the anvil with the point facing up and gently
strike parallel with the face. This will bend the hook between the impact
point and the unforged bar. Another basic blacksmithing principle (basic
physics, blacksmithing is the living practice of basic physics) Force WILL
take the path of least resistance so the thinned part of the piece between
the impact point and fully thick section will bend. You'll see your hook
form right up, it's a LOT easier than it sounds. To tighten it up, gently
hammer on the curve directly over the anvil, it'll close the loop up between
the impact point and the anvil contact point. With a little practice you can
true up a loop or hook easily by how where you strike to control where the
stock will bend.

Almost the only things I use the horns on my anvils for are as fullers to
speed drawing, occasionally to true up a ring/loop/etc. OR for show at
demos. Seems most spectators WANT to see the horn used so I do.

A section of RR rail makes a fine anvil, it's generally 1080 high carbon
steel and really tough. The contact surface has a nice crown to it so it
assists drawing down like a wide radius fuller If you can get a long
section, say 30-36 inches mount it on end, a bucket of concrete is good, it
adds weight is stable and easy to move. You don't really need much more
anvil face than you have hammer face so a little larger is plenty. The web
and flanges turn right into really handy things. For the hot cut I recommend
usig the flange on the far side from where you stand so you're less likely
to rap your knuckles on the sharp blade. Using a part of that flange to make
a butcher is really handy. Simply radius part of the web for fullers, even
though it's only one thickness you can vary the radius you grind on it.
Fullers are outstanding tools for drawing and isolating sections. While
you're grinding your hot cut, butcher, fullers, etc. 

Another delightful feature of rail is all the handy swage surfaces found
between the web, the rail and the flanges, those rounded inside corners are
really handy things. And NO you don't have to have swages laying
horizontally for them to work, they work just dandy vertically. In face it's
easer straightening work if you can just let it hang and have it lay
straight in the swage. Flattening long or wide pieces can be done against
the bottom of the flange to help clean up hammer marks.

Remember to break the edges of the rail you're using for the face, a close
radius so it doesn't make sharp cuts in the work you're doing. Sharp "dents"
are "COLD SHUTS" Basic physics again, force will conduct smoothly till it
encounters an inconsistency and it will ALL concentrate at THAT point. So,
if you leave a sharp mark and use the piece for heavy work it's very likely
to break right THERE. The old school method of cutting RR rail is to use a
cold chisel to score it around the measured point, put another piece of rail
under that point, lift it and drop it. The rail snaps on the score mark with
a beautifully precise, clean break. Just like cutting glass, score a mark
and give it a tap, the pressure wave that is the "tink" sound you hear stops
and concentrates all its energy at the interruption. Cold shut in steel.

I think I've rambled enough for now I hope I haven't muddied the waters more
than clearing them. I've used rail anvils a LOT, I'll use anything hard and
heavy if the mood strikes me to do some camp fire forging and that depends
mostly on what I've found scrounging around. Folk love a good fire poker or
toasting fork, etc. and I love the looks on their faces when I take some
random piece of rusty steel and beat one out on a boulder, sledge hammer
head or a piece of whatever.

Frosty

-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Carrie Haag
Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 9:53 AM
To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: [TheForge] Advice for a beginner.

I'm planning on starting my coal forge up for the first time in about a
month.  I think I have enough coal for a small project.  I've made an "s"
hook and a rather ugly leaf with the over site of a much more experienced
smith.  I have a piece of rail road track, a forge, a cross pein hammer, a
pair of vice grips, and a ton of rebar (not ideal I know but better than
nothing for a beginner).  As the RR track doesn't have a horn I don't think
I can make an "s" hook.  What projects would be a good starting point for
the experience and equipment I have?

--
Carrie Haag