[TheForge] anvil repair

[Larry Brown]

What would you use as a build up wire?
Larry Brown

At 10:20 AM 4/26/2013 -0800, you wrote:

>These are ALL HARDFACING rods and wire!! ARGHHHHH!!!
>
>They're abrasion resistant and really unsuitable unless you're planning on 
>rubbing rocks on your anvil face.
>
>Use buildup rod or wire, it's intended to provdie an IMPACT resistant 
>substrate so hardfacing won't check and spall in flexion. Buildup doesn't 
>work harden, it's already impact resistant enough to take a dozer's worth 
>of abuse without denting or work hardening. You can lay multiple passes 
>without preheating, post heating or worrying about it. It's designed to 
>build up and replace LOST steel. It grinds well with common stone cups or 
>right angle disks,NOT blue or green wheels, just plain old grinding disks 
>and cups.
>
>GET OFF THE HARDFACING KICK!  It's a myth and not only doesn't work it 
>damages anvil faces with all the BADNESS of over heating HC steel faces!, 
>It also causes many times the work to finish but I don't really CARE if 
>you guys want to do ten times the work neccessary for a poor surface. I DO 
>care about all the anvils hardfacing rod and wire are ruining!
>
>I know of which I speak, I ran hardfacing rods and wire for 20 years and 
>had to clean up messes made by guys who THOUGHT harder was better. DOLTS! 
>Yeah, I've run a few THOUSAND lbs. of Lincore 50 and it's superior for 
>what it's intended HARD FACING, NOT anvil repair.
>
>Jer
>
>On 4/25/2013 5:10 PM, Andrew Vida wrote:
>>Grind all broken areas until nothing but bright metal shows.  Follow 
>>cracks all the way until they are no more.  Preheat anvil to 400* even if 
>>manufacturer of hardface material says it is not needed. It is.
>>
>>Lay in your hardface material.  Grind to your desired geometry. Done.
>>
>>The best electrodes we (NJBA) ever used was Hobart SmoothArc 600, but 
>>that does not come in wire - stick only.  For wire we used Lincore 50, 
>>though I believe they have gone to Lincore 55 now and it works very 
>>well.  I prefer material that goes on at full hardness.  The work 
>>hardening materials are not to my liking. YMMV, of course.
>>
>>On 4/24/2013 7:14 AM, James wrote:
>>>I know this has been discussed before but I need a refresher course...
>>>
>>>Bought an old (1856) William Foster anvil a few weeks ago. The top is
>>>pretty flat but the edges are beaten off almost all the way around and a
>>>couple places that appear to have rips or tears in the top.
>>>
>>>According to the Postman book, Anvils in America it has a wrought base
>>>and a steel top that was forge welded.
>>>
>>>If you were to attempt to rebuild the corners/edges of this anvil, what
>>>procedure would you follow? And what electrodes would you use?
>>>
>>>My inclination is to clean it as much as possible, pre-heat to about400
>>>degrees F, weld the bottom of any holes that cannot be cleaned without
>>>doing serious damage to the anvil with a 6010 electrode (because it
>>>tolerates rust and junk and penetrates deeply). Then build up the
>>>surfaces with something like a 7018, grind down, etc. (I've read the
>>>7018 works pretty well rebuilding an anvil.)
>>>
>>>I have an almost full 50# box of Lincoln Abrasoweld that I use
>>>occasionally but don't know if it's for impact, abrasion or both. I
>>>hesitate to use an extremely hard rod on an anvil. On the other hand, in
>>>the 40 years that I've been welding I've used Stoody, Hi-Alloy, Hobart,
>>>specialty rods etc. with generally good success. Those rods used to be
>>>pretty common here (100 mi. NE of Dallas, TX) but now you just about
>>>can't get any special stick rods (Ni for cast iron being and Hi-Alloy
>>>500 the only exceptions).
>>>
>>>I presume this is due to the extreme popularity of MIG machines and the
>>>guys using portable rigs only use 6010/11 and 7018 for most work. All
>>>that to say, specialty rods are hard to find here and the boys in the
>>>welding shops aren't very helpful.
>>>
>>>Would you go to the trouble to find a different rod selection than what
>>>I have mentioned and what procedure would you recommend if different
>>>from the above? Since Postman says the body of this anvil is wrought -
>>>and I've never stick welded wrought iron - will I have any difficulties
>>>if I get down into the wrought part?
>>>
>>>And one more question, just how well would a MIG w/ standard
>>>off-the-shelf MIG wire and 92/8 or 75/25 shielding gas work to repair an
>>>anvil?
>>>
>>>Thanks,
>>>James
>
>______________________________________________________________
>TheForge mailing list
>Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
>Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>Post: mailto:TheForge at mailman.qth.net
>
>TheForge mail list group photo site is
>http://www.shutterfly.com
>Login: blacksmithblacksmith at hotmail.com
>Password: anvil
>
>This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html