[TheForge] Rivet Vendor?

peter fels artgawk at thegrid.net
Sat Sep 3 15:48:33 EDT 2011


On Sep 3, 2011, at 6:46 AM, Paul Novorolsky wrote:

> For my unsatisfactory attempt, I did center punch. The problem I had was 
> that at least a couple of hammer blows early on were not directly inline 
> with the center. So the dimple was shifted off-center, and then 
> correcting it while you really can't see it is more difficult than 
> correcting it in clear view.

You too?  That's some of the reason why i  use the treadle hammer so much.
The anvil is built up pretty high which helps with visual access.
Grinding the male shape sure is legit and allows a variety of variations.
> 
> Anyway, the point I was trying to make, particularly for the benefit of 
> those just starting out is that you don't need to go buy or forage for 
> special stuff (ball bearing). You can get by, or perhaps even find a 
> better solution by making tools to make tools.

Good, we agree.
> 
> I hope I'm not harping on this. As in all things in blacksmithing. Ask 2 
> smiths how to do something, and you'll get at least 3 different answers.

I suspect you are underestimating the # of answers Paul.
> 
> **Paul
> 
> On 9/1/2011 11:56 AM, peter fels wrote:
>> That works.
>> The trick for centering that i omitted, figuring TMI, is to drill or centerpunch a dimple where the indent is to go.
>> 
>> On Sep 1, 2011, at 6:11 AM, Paul Novorolsky wrote:
>> 
>>> I tried that ball bearing method once. First I had to find an
>>> appropriate sized ball bearing, then keeping the tool adequately
>>> centered on it was unsatisfactory, at least for my skills. Not to
>>> mention that I had to stop once or twice to go find the ball bearing
>>> that made an escape.
>>> 
>>> Take II involved taking a piece of an old crowbar, drawing it down and
>>> rounding the end, then dressing it to a hemisphere with a rasp into a
>>> "bob" or "bobbing" punch. Then use the punch to make the recess in the
>>> rivet header that is held firmly in the vise.
>>> 
>>> This method gave me more visibility over the work in progress, plus I
>>> now have 2 tools. The punch could probably be made from mild steel, but
>>> since I wanted to keep it, I used the tougher crowbar steel.
>>> 
>>> **Paul
>>> 
>>> On 9/1/11 12:48 AM, peter fels wrote:
>>>> They are easy to fake.
>>>> 
>>>> Heat the end of a tool steel bar,
>>>> And drive it down on the appropriate sized ball bearing,
>>>> over a sacrifice plate.
>>>> Then heat treat and dress.
>>>> 
>>>> They are made for pneumatic riveting hammers
>>>> and commercially available in all sizes, or were in the recent past.
>>>> For smaller sizes i've been buying from  "The Yard"
>>>> which sells light aircraft mfg supplies, often used, at good prices.
>>>> 
>>>> On Aug 31, 2011, at 8:33 PM, Kim George wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>> Does anyone know if they still sell rivet heading tools?
>>>>> 
>>>>> --
>>>>> Kim George
>>>>> 
>>>>> "Why for you try to bury me in cold,cold ground?"
>>>>>     Taz
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