[TheForge] Home-made grinders and wire brushes

Thu Jun 23 21:11:43 EDT 2011

Not necessarily, just have the wheel chucked up in a slow turning motor, say 
a 1/2" hand drill, inject the rubber of your choice into the hub and turn it 
on. Centrifigul (Would that be centripital?) force will even the goo out in 
the hub. The drill motor will need to be solidly held or mounted or it'll 
make it worse.

Many years ago we got sold a tire balancing system that worked this way. 
We'd pull the valve core, pour lead shot into the tire using the chart to 
figure dose, replace the core with the fancy one that came with the tool and 
put it on the special spin balancer and set the steady stop. Next we'd empty 
a can of goop, size determined from another chart, and turn the spin 
balancer on set on "balance." After 2-3 minutes the goop would set up and 
the tire would be balanced pretty darned well. We relegated the balance 
tools, goop, charts, etc. to a back shelf, I think the lead shot ended up in 
the bosses shotgun shells, because most of us could balance a tire more 
accurately and much more quickly.

Anyhow, I don't see why it wouldn't take care of balancing a wire wheel. The 
goop is all that'd throw it out of balance so spreading  the goop should 
rebalance it.

Of course it may not work at all, so just think mean things at me if it 
doesn't. <grin>

Jer
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "aaron craig" <ironbyaaron at yahoo.com>
To: "Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2011 1:14 AM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Home-made grinders and wire brushes

Might shake like crazy even if the (GE Silicone Seal RTV?Shoe Goo?) is in 
close to the hub

--- On Thu, 6/23/11, Bruce Freeman <freemab222 at gmail.com> wrote:

From: Bruce Freeman <freemab222 at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Home-made grinders and wire brushes
To: "Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Date: Thursday, June 23, 2011, 5:54 PM

Right, that's why I'm wondering whether a partially "potted" wire
wheel would make sense. To whit: Take a wire wheel, say, 6" in
diameter. The hub, etc., accounts for 1" to 1.5", perhaps, so you've
got "working" wire length of maybe 1.75"-2". But no one ever uses a
wheel down to the hub. If you wear off 1" of radius, that's a lot.

So suppose you coax some sort of liquid rubber (GE Silicone Seal RTV?
Shoe Goo?) into the mass of wires from the hub out to a radius of
maybe 3.5", but no further. This leaves free wires extending 1.5"
beyond the rubber. Rooted in rubber, the wires would tend to flex
across a longer length (I hypothesize) than without the rubber, and,
hence, would be less likely to break off. Clearly, the nature of the
rubber matters a lot for this to work -- the hardness, the fatigue
resistance, the adhesion between rubber and wires, etc.

On Thu, Jun 23, 2011 at 1:50 PM, peter fels <artgawk at thegrid.net> wrote:
>
> On Jun 23, 2011, at 7:42 AM, Bruce Freeman wrote:
>
>> There are wire wheels "potted" (thoroughly impregnated) with rubber.
>> I've seen these but never tried them. In principal, they should be
>> less likely to throw wires, and slightly less likely to snag the work.
>>
>> I'm wondering whether it might make sense to impregnate at least the
>> inner part of the wires in rubber like this to relieve to some extent
>> the stress they're under at the base, thus subjecting them to less
>> fatigue (from bending back and forth at the base) and, hence,
>> breakage. Any thoughts?
>>
>
>
> Seems right Bruce..certainly would be safer, cut more aggressively
> and last longer.
> The drawback i see is that one usually uses a wire wheel to get 
> penetration into
> depressed features in a surface and potted wires won't penetrate very 
> deeply.
>
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-- 
Bruce
NJ
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