[TheForge] need help on a project

Mon Aug 1 19:23:15 EDT 2011

I'd use 52100 with a differential quench.
Chuck

On 8/1/2011 5:28 PM, peter fels wrote:
> For the application, an edge quench makes sense.
>
> But, just for discussion.....
> I have a few old favorite knives that have been sharpened many times over the years,
> so much so, that they are ground past the hardened edge and have become too soft to keep an edge.
> I've goofed around with work hardening the edge, with very modest success.
> Seems too much trouble to strip them, re-heat treat them and rehandle them.
> I've mused about wrapping the handle in a wet rag and re-edge hardening them with a torch...Haven't tried yet.
>
> Last..grousing;
> Our pleasant house sitter was very effective at dulling the kitchen knives..presumably sawing her preferred veggies
> on the stone countertop and the ceramic plates.   Arrrrrrg!
>
> On Aug 1, 2011, at 1:18 PM, Ron Childers wrote:
>
>> Logic would dictate if the customer said a "Ka-Bar" the military version
>> is what he wants. These retail around $65....I agree on the edge
>> quench...
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
>> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
>> blakkpawss at yahoo.com
>> Sent: Monday, August 01, 2011 3:46 PM
>> To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
>> Subject: Re: [TheForge] need help on a project
>>
>> In a knife project like this, unless the buyer specifies a specific make
>> of the Ka Bar or specifies the type of metal used, it's up to you.  As
>> such, pick a metal that will do what you want it to do.  One that you
>> know inside and out on working.  Also look at what other knife makers,
>> that are using that material, have to say about working it.  Unless the
>> knife is double edged or has a saw spine, then an edge quench is the way
>> to go.  This will also show a temper line (hamon) if it is finished to a
>> degree where it shows(mirror or near mirror).  However, normal wear and
>> tear a knife go through will scratch up the surface and mask such a
>> temper line.
>> Sent from my BlackBerry(r) smartphone powered by Alltel
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: "Ron Childers"<ron at munlaw.net>
>> Sender: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
>> Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 15:33:46
>> To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA<theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>> Reply-To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
>> <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>> Subject: Re: [TheForge] need help on a project
>>
>> A Q&A article in "Blade" said 1095 was used in the original USMC knives
>> in WWII, but it could also have been Camillus or another manufacturer.
>> There are over 30 styles of Ka-Bar knives, some of which, including the
>> newer USMC commemorative are 440-A Stainless. They list 1095, several
>> types of ss, D-2, etc in the glossary but don't say the type of steel in
>> every blade style.
>>
>> Legend has it that Ka-Bar,(Union Cutlery at the time) allegedly got its
>> name from a letter sent by a fur trapper in the mid '20's who stated he
>> shot a bear and wounded it then his gun jammed and he had to kill the
>> attacking bear with his knife. The only readable letters at the bottom
>> of the page were K a Bar. The officers of the company were so taken with
>> this unsolicited testimonial the name was changed to "Ka-Bar".
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
>> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jason Nass
>> Sent: Monday, August 01, 2011 12:28 PM
>> To: 'Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA'
>> Subject: Re: [TheForge] need help on a project
>>
>> A good friend used to work for Ka-Bar, and at one point purchased
>> several
>> tons of drops at scrap price. The steel is 1085, not 1095. He was also
>> kind
>> enough to give me a small stash of the stuff he got, I use it with 15N20
>> to
>> make my pattern welded steels. I assume you  want pattern welded
>> Damascus,
>> and not true Damascus steel, as there are to my knowledge only 2 guys in
>> the
>> world who have managed to make it in modern times... and I don't think
>> that
>> it is a 100% process to get the pattern to show. There are a ton of us
>> pattern welding, and a ton of suppliers for raw billet. I will make
>> billet
>> to order, 3/16 x 1 (approximate) runs around $25-$35/ linear inch
>> depending
>> on the pattern you want, as some take more work than others.
>>
>> Jason Nass
>> me at wargoth.com
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
>> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Vida
>> Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 12:41 PM
>> To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
>> Subject: Re: [TheForge] need help on a project
>>
>>
>>
>> On 7/31/2011 11:08 AM, fudgumz at gmail.com wrote:
>>> I've been contracted to make a Ka-Bar knife. My question is what steel
>> should i use? I can order whatever i need. Also, does anyone know where
>> i
>> can get some quality damascus? And can anyone tell me whether a hamon
>> would
>> show on damascus?
>>> Matt Gallagher.
>> Original KaBars were, IIRC, simple tool steel (1095?)
>>
>> The answer is that it depends on what is wanted in terms of a finished
>> product.  If you want something authentic, you stick with plain steel.
>> If stain resistance is important there are some CPM steels I hear to be
>> excellent without sacrificing other important qualities such as edge
>> holding
>> and toughness.
>>
>> Perhaps a little more information is in order.
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