[TheForge] need help on a project

[Ron Childers]

Logic would dictate if the customer said a "Ka-Bar" the military version
is what he wants. These retail around $65....I agree on the edge
quench...

-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
blakkpawss at yahoo.com
Sent: Monday, August 01, 2011 3:46 PM
To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: Re: [TheForge] need help on a project

In a knife project like this, unless the buyer specifies a specific make
of the Ka Bar or specifies the type of metal used, it's up to you.  As
such, pick a metal that will do what you want it to do.  One that you
know inside and out on working.  Also look at what other knife makers,
that are using that material, have to say about working it.  Unless the
knife is double edged or has a saw spine, then an edge quench is the way
to go.  This will also show a temper line (hamon) if it is finished to a
degree where it shows(mirror or near mirror).  However, normal wear and
tear a knife go through will scratch up the surface and mask such a
temper line.  
Sent from my BlackBerry(r) smartphone powered by Alltel

-----Original Message-----
From: "Ron Childers" <ron at munlaw.net>
Sender: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 15:33:46 
To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA<theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Reply-To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
<theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [TheForge] need help on a project

A Q&A article in "Blade" said 1095 was used in the original USMC knives
in WWII, but it could also have been Camillus or another manufacturer.
There are over 30 styles of Ka-Bar knives, some of which, including the
newer USMC commemorative are 440-A Stainless. They list 1095, several
types of ss, D-2, etc in the glossary but don't say the type of steel in
every blade style. 

Legend has it that Ka-Bar,(Union Cutlery at the time) allegedly got its
name from a letter sent by a fur trapper in the mid '20's who stated he
shot a bear and wounded it then his gun jammed and he had to kill the
attacking bear with his knife. The only readable letters at the bottom
of the page were K a Bar. The officers of the company were so taken with
this unsolicited testimonial the name was changed to "Ka-Bar".  

-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jason Nass
Sent: Monday, August 01, 2011 12:28 PM
To: 'Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA'
Subject: Re: [TheForge] need help on a project

A good friend used to work for Ka-Bar, and at one point purchased
several
tons of drops at scrap price. The steel is 1085, not 1095. He was also
kind
enough to give me a small stash of the stuff he got, I use it with 15N20
to
make my pattern welded steels. I assume you  want pattern welded
Damascus,
and not true Damascus steel, as there are to my knowledge only 2 guys in
the
world who have managed to make it in modern times... and I don't think
that
it is a 100% process to get the pattern to show. There are a ton of us
pattern welding, and a ton of suppliers for raw billet. I will make
billet
to order, 3/16 x 1 (approximate) runs around $25-$35/ linear inch
depending
on the pattern you want, as some take more work than others. 

Jason Nass
me at wargoth.com

-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Vida
Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 12:41 PM
To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: Re: [TheForge] need help on a project



On 7/31/2011 11:08 AM, fudgumz at gmail.com wrote:
> I've been contracted to make a Ka-Bar knife. My question is what steel
should i use? I can order whatever i need. Also, does anyone know where
i
can get some quality damascus? And can anyone tell me whether a hamon
would
show on damascus?
> Matt Gallagher.

Original KaBars were, IIRC, simple tool steel (1095?)

The answer is that it depends on what is wanted in terms of a finished
product.  If you want something authentic, you stick with plain steel. 
If stain resistance is important there are some CPM steels I hear to be
excellent without sacrificing other important qualities such as edge
holding
and toughness.

Perhaps a little more information is in order.
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