[TheForge] oil/wax finish, blackened steel

[Cheryl Brimson]

If you have any questions about toxicity, do what I've done for years, check the manufacturer's MSDS sheet.  All products, especially manufactured chemicals, have to be able to show what active ingredients and physical/physiological characteristics they possess.  I looked up the MSDS for Dynamic Mfg.'s Japan Dryer and Boiled Linseed Oil, and you have more toxic products in either spray paint/polyeurethane varnish or paint remover.  I have known a few people who suffered from acute sensitivity to cobalt from grinding carbide tool components in progressive dies, but that degree of sensitivity is rare.  The fumes from using arc welding rod or the scale you wire brush off forged steel is probably more harmful; as is the dust from the coal or coke used to forge with.  The key is to use a mask to contain the dust and to have adequate ventilation. Use gloves to protect your skin from contact dermatitis and you are probably fine.  FYI dryers or accelerants for oil based finish products generally do not contain "solids" but are "thinners" such as gum turpentine or isopropyl (denatured) alcohol.  All of which is fine, unless you are going to try to drink the stuff.  Keep a bottle of Scotch or Captain Morgan on hand  for that.




On  Oct 23, 2010, at 10:20 PM, Mike Spencer wrote:

> 
>> ...I've been warned that the dryers in "boiled linseed oil" and
>> japan dryers are capable of giving you heavy metals poisoning...
> 
> I think (but can't immediately confirm) that "Japan drier" has become
> a generic term for several kids of drier.  Cobalt is used in several
> brands of driers.  In addition I've seen an allegation that "boiled"
> linseed oil contains "arsenic, beryllium, chromium, cadmium and
> nickel" as drier constituents.  Bleee.  
> 
> Years ago, a smith here called the makers of a brand of boiled linseed
> oil sold here and asked about using it on food prep utensils.  The
> company rep emphatically urged him not to do that, but to use "raw"
> linseed oil. The rep confirmed that "boiled" isn't boiled but has
> driers added.
> 
> So I just stay away from "boiled" linseed.  For a railing or exterior
> paint it's probably fine but why mess around?
> 
> - Mike
> 
> -- 
> Michael Spencer                  Nova Scotia, Canada       .~. 
>                                                           /V\ 
> mspencer at tallships.ca                                     /( )\
> http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/                        ^^-^^
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