[TheForge] Fw: Anvil repair

Sat Oct 16 22:52:16 EDT 2010

"Ask 30 smiths how to do something and you are sure to get 29 conflicting 
directions....."

Correction: Ask 30 smiths how to do something and you are sure to get 31
conflicting 
directions.  

Carry on. :-)

Rob

-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of peter fels & phoebe
palmer
Sent: Saturday, October 16, 2010 8:59 PM
To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Fw: Anvil repair

  As you have probably guessed Jason..
I'd respectfully advise gently rounding the chipped edges and grinding a 
bit off the high spots.
If you need a crisp, square corner( to encourage stress risers), use a 
hardy stake.
Ask 30 smiths how to do something and you are sure to get 29 conflicting 
directions.

On 10/16/2010 3:53 PM, Jason Nass wrote:
> About what I figured. The Sway isn't really bad, only about the thickness
of
> a quarter tail to step at the worst of it. If I can find someone in-town
> with the ability to grind the face flat for a reasonable price, I'll
> probably go that route as it will clean up the edges a bit and get them
> where I'll have a small length where they are semi-square. I like to have
a
> spot on the face where I can get a nice, clean shoulder with 1/2 on blows,
> but it is far from critical. I was mostly just wondering if there was a
> reliable way to clean them up that wasn't a huge pain.
>
> Jason Nass - MacTalis Ironworks
> me at wargoth.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Vida
> Sent: Saturday, October 16, 2010 4:09 PM
> To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Fw: Anvil repair
>
> You're WAY overthinking this.   Get some Lincore 50 wire or SmoothArc
> 600 rod.  Grind out the chips to clean metal. Preheat to 400*.  Lay in
your
> filler.  Grind.  Let cool.  Done.
>
> DOn't worry about sway unless it is really pronounced and is affecting the
> work.  Dead-flat is not necessary - some say not even wanted.
>
> You can increase the edge readii, too, though I am not a fan of this
> approach.  Leave as much of the anvil in place as possible, IMO.
>
>
>
> Jason Nass wrote:
>> While we are on the topic of anvil repair, what is the best way to
address
>> chipping along the edges, I recently picked up a 1860-1900 era Peter
> Wright
>> 157# at a good price, $1.50/lb. and it has a little chipping along both
>> edges, not so severe as to be unworkable, but a little in the way
> sometimes.
>> I am torn between taking a little off the face, (which I will probably do
>> anyway because it has a tiny bit of sway),  or just making the rounds on
> the
>> shoulders a little larger so that the chips disappear into the shoulders.
>> Any reliable ways to build up the shoulders without completely trashing
> the
>> heat treat? I've seen the process, and while I am confident I could pull
> it
>> off, I really don't want to anneal it, mill it and then re-harden it if I
>> can avoid it.
>>
>> Jason Nass - MacTalis Ironworks
>> me at wargoth.com
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
>> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Freeman
>> Sent: Saturday, October 16, 2010 1:38 PM
>> To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
>> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Fw: Anvil repair
>>
>> Mike--
>>
>> That's absolutely correct, and Josh (who may be lurking here) has the
>> Fisher-Norris patterns to prove it.
>>
>> Fisher-Norris had a special mold form for sand casting anvils.  It looked
>> just like the anvil, but had an extra lump on the top.  The sand mold was
>> made around the pattern, the pattern removed, and the surface plate -
plus
>> an extra cast steel plate for the top of the horn
>> - was inserted.  This left an anvil-shaped void below the plates, and
>> another void above it.
>>
>> The mold was filled inverted, so the void "above" the plate filled first
> and
>> pre-heated the plate to red heat.  The rest of the mold was then filled
> and
>> the whole allowed to cool.  The chunk of cast iron on top of the anvil
had
>> not adhered, and was easily knocked off.  But the pre-heating allowed the
>> rest of the anvil adhere to the plates (which is Fisher's discovery) and
a
>> solid anvil resulted.
>>
>> On Sat, Oct 16, 2010 at 11:17 AM, CGRAF<adveniam at att.net>  wrote:
>>> I seem to remember ( and Seeming to remember is happening more and
>>> more) that some of the tool steel tops were welded to the base of cast
>>> anvils by placing the heated steel plate in the mold and pouring the
cast
>> over it.
>>> It might work, but I cannot find any corroborating documents in my
>>> piles of crap.
>>>
>>> At any rate it sounds less nasty than trying to forge weld a 3/4 inch
>>> plate onto a base.
>>>
>>> Am I remembering something real or just a dream?
>>>
>>> Mike Graf
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>>
>>
>> --
>> Bruce
>> NJ
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