[TheForge] hammer handles (was Re: Doffer (Was: blackened steel finish))

[Paul N]

Ha, I was just going to ask what others do to finish their hammer 
handles. I had flattened several handles a few weeks ago, and had my 
forge lit up yesterday (temperatures in the 90's). Well, I think my 
perspiration caused the wood grain to raise, and I ended up with nasty 
blister before I stopped and sanded down the handles. They were quite 
rough by that time.

So this made me think that the raw wood was a bad idea.

So, other than lanolin, are there any other popular, and non-slippery 
finishes that are in-favor?  (I had always trimmed my handles, and this 
was the first time that they really got that rough. I guess I was 
sweatier than usual :-)

**Paul


On 7/6/10 1:34 PM, Jerry Frost wrote:
> Another endorsement! I hadn't thought of trying it on my hammer handles but
> will give it a shot. I make my handles from 4/4 hickory I cut in a flat
> taper from the head to the end where I put a round/flat bulge. The face edge
> is flat while the pein edge is rounded, that way I never have to look to see
> which way the hammer's facing. It makes good theater at demos to give the
> hammer a spin in my hand on the back swing to change from face to pein or
> back without looking and just continue hammering. It really impresses the
> audience and heck, now and then a smith will take a look at the handle and
> some are impressed in a far more satisfying way.
>
> Anyway, the flat taper makes the hammer a lot easier and less tiring to hold
> onto. Being flat also makes keeping the face or pein aligned much more easy.
> Currently I've been warming the handles and applying hard paste wax
> furniture polish as a finish. It's nice and smooth but offers good friction
> for a less tiring grip and minimum chance of blistering.
>
> A last summer yard sale find is a 3lb cross pein with a broken handle the
> seller wouldn't sell because he didn't want anyone getting hurt. Then I told
> him I'm a smith and looking for useful stuff so he gave it to me saying I
> wouldn't hurt myself with it. I made one of my handles but didn't get quite
> enough taper on it for it's weight so it's a little slippery. I'm going to
> give it the lanolin treatment for sure.
>
> Thanks Rob.
> Jer
> -------------------------
> If it ain't forged
> It ain't real
> wrought iron is
> The Frostworks
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rob Fertner"<rfertner at cox.net>
> To: "'Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA'"<theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 10:41 AM
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Doffer (Was: blackened steel finish)
>
>
>> Speaking of Lanolin, I like using it to finish my hammer handles. Plus,
>> the
>> more you use the hammer, the oils from your skin just add to the patina of
>> the wood. I buy a 7 oz jar of pure lanolin at the local health food store
>> for $6.79.
>> It's consistency is like a thicker Vaseline. I like the way the wood feels
>> with this finish.
>>
>> Rob
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
>> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jerry Frost
>> Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 1:07 PM
>> To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
>> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Doffer (Was: blackened steel finish)
>>
>> Thanks Bruce. I've also found the lanolin finish is a lot more durable
>> than
>> I thought it'd be but not contaminating wool was my reason for giving it a
>> try.
>>
>> We have raw wool but buying a tube of lanolin will be the next step, it
>> does
>>
>> indeed smell better but sheep wool isn't particularly unpleasant.
>>
>>
>>
>>
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