[TheForge] metalworking question- soldering brass

[Paul]

On 1/20/2010 2:56 PM, Andy Gladish wrote:
> Thanks so much, this is exactly the info I need.
> Any recommendations for a suitable solder?
> Also, what about preparation? Using jewelry solder, I've always cleaned
> with an acid bath- would filing and flux be suitable?
> It's not so much perfect preservation of the patina, more that we don't
> want to get into having to polish the entire length because of a joint
> needing to be filed/sanded smooth.
> <snip>
>    
Another possibility if the purpose of the joint is more cosmetic than 
structural is to use a soft solder. The new plumbing solders are non 
lead based, with mostly tin, antimony and a few percent of silver. They 
can use water soluble fluxes that clean up well. If the ends are cut 
perfectly as you describe, you would first 'tin' them after cleaning and 
cutting, you only need soap and water and isopropol alcohol to clean, 
followed by a light mechanical cleaning with 600 wet or dry supported 
with a flat piece of glass to keep the edges crisp. Once the ends are 
tinned align them and heat to the flow point, about 500 deg F or so, and 
when the parts heat sufficiently they can be drawn together the last few 
thousandths of an inch. The low temp and the lack of acid flux may 
preserve the patina. I have used a copper sulfate solution with sulfuric 
acid to 'plate' the solder on foiled stained glass projects... it might 
blend in well with a joint that is measured in thousands of an inch. I 
have not used the copper patina on the new solders, only on 50/50... so 
test it first to see what you get.

-- 
Paul
WB9HCO
My Grandfather WAS a blacksmith...
and it didn't do me one damn bit of good.
All opinions are the personal beliefs of the author, and are based on decades of experience... so use your best judgement, I'm just a lowly crafstman.
  "The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits." -Albert Einstein
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