[TheForge] Fanning the flames

[Daniel Kretchmar]

 I put 3 boards in u shaped slot nailed to the top paddle.  The slot
is three bricks wide.  I can increase the air flow by increasing the
number of bricks.  Most work is done with 1 or 2 bricks, while forge
welding seems to take 3 bricks.  I tell the crowd that my bellows has
4 speeds; Zero, and 1,2, and 3 bricks. I can fit 5 bricks if I turn
them on their side, but that much air is just a waste of charcoal.

danr


On Sun, Dec 19, 2010 at 8:33 PM, Paul N <crosspein at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> I half expected that 3/4" plywood would be too light. Maybe I'll
> laminate a couple of pieces of 1/2" for the bottom, although hanging
> weight from it doesn't bother me. The museum shop where I volunteer has
> a rebuilt antique bellows, and even with planks about 1" thick, we hung
> 4 very large horse shoes from the bottom paddle to get it to draw more
> effectively.
>
> Thanks for the comments.
> **Paul
>
> On 12/19/10 11:47 AM, bmyers647 at comcast.net wrote:
>> Paul, contact me offline and I will send you the plans that I have in a pdf of an old book. Don't know the name of the book, as I am away from my files.
>>
>> I don't recommend using the plywood. Bellows I have seen made from plywood need to weighted to allow the bottom to fall to gather the new air. It does allow fewer opportunities to leak air though.
>>
>> I have had good experience with artist's canvas as a leather substitute, but when the historical site could afford leather, it made a nicer job.
>>
>> One other suggestion, use a 5/8" bar across the entire span rather than a short piece on each side. I find that the kids who I allow to pull the bellows like to chin themselves on the rope and the short bar will weaken the center board and in one case, cracked the board.
>>
>> I have made one complete bellows. Refurbished three others.
>>
>> Barry Myers
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