[TheForge] OT - rust-proof spring needed

[Bruce Freeman]

Good ideas.  Thanks.

For those who've never made a spring on a lathe --

The surprising thing is you start with spring-hard metal, so no
hardening and tempering is involved.  (I've used spring steel and
spring-hard SS.)

I do whatever shaping I need for the head end, including something to
allow me to firmly attach it to a steel mandrel that is chucked in the
lathe.  I then clamp the wire between blocks mounted by some means on
the compound rest -- firmly, but loose enough that the wire will slide
between the blocks.

Set the threading gears to advance the compound rest to produce the
coil-spacing you want (which is greater than the wire diameter for
compression springs, usually equal to the wire diameter for extension
springs or torsion springs, and may be somewhat less than the wire
diameter for 'pres-stressed' extension springs).

Then turn on the lathe and watch.  Stop the process before the wire
pulls through the blocks -- lest the spring violently unwrap!  (The
mandrel will restrict it, but the violence can be severe and could
easily damage something or injure you.)  Remember that the mandrel
needs be smaller than the final ID of the spring.

 For steel springs, at least, you can predict the strength on the
basis of the wire diameter and the coil diameter and spacing.  Consult
the Machinery's Handbook for their excellent section on springs before
trying this yourself.

My little Atlas lathe can probably coil 1/8" wire (I have yet to try),
but I doubt it has the torque to do more than that.  I've had very
good results with small wire sizes.  One thing -- the wire must be
absolutely straight when you begin.  Coiled wire will give you a messy
spring.  It might still work but it looks like hell.  (It might be
possible to get a good spring from coiled wire, but I don't know how
to do it.)

On Fri, Aug 27, 2010 at 9:49 AM, Kim George <klgeorge at kent.edu> wrote:
> Do you have a good plumbing supply around? Not a big box store but one
> that your plumbers go to? They may have the part sitting on the shelf.
>
> On 8/27/10, barkingcrow at comcast.net <barkingcrow at comcast.net> wrote:
>> What's involved in making a spring on your lathe?  heat treating?
>>
>> On Aug 27, 2010, at 7:46 AM, "Ron Childers" <munlaw2 at hcsmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Go to a marina where they work on boats. There may be something in the
>>> scrap
>>> pile
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
>>> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Peter Fels & Phoebe
>>> Palmer
>>> Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2010 5:50 PM
>>> To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
>>> Subject: Re: [TheForge] OT - rust-proof spring needed
>>>
>>> Abuse some brazing rod to stiffen it up and wrap it?
>>>
>>> Bruce Freeman wrote:
>>>> I'm fixing my drain plug mechanism, which is rather like this:
>>>> http://www.hometips.com/repair-fix/bathtub-stoppers.html
>>>>
>>>> It's the spring that's broken.  The existing one is 1.25 OD, 1/8"
>>>> wire, brass or bronze, and there's not much left of it.
>>>>
>>>> I can get a pack of six SS springs more-or-less this size from
>>>> McMaster-Carr for about $15 + shipping, but would prefer to go cheaper
>>>> if possible, especially as I'd need to fit one of those to the
>>>> mechanism -- possible but not trivial.
>>>>
>>>> I can wrap springs on my lathe if i can find an appropriate wire.  (A
>>>> coil of  SS wire of this size is >$15 from McMaster).
>>>>
>>>> Anyone have any inspiration where I might get a spring or spring wire
>>>> like
>>> this?
>>>>
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>
>
> --
> Kim George
>
> "Why for you try to bury me in cold,cold ground?"
>     Taz
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-- 
Bruce
NJ