[TheForge] More on knife gluing

Mon Aug 23 17:59:44 EDT 2010

I'm on this knife list:
http://www.kepler-eng.com/lists/info/knife-list
Some very experienced and professional members. Low traffic volume, high
quality.

 Graham

On Mon, Aug 23, 2010 at 8:49 PM, Andy Gladish <gladish at cablerocket.com>wrote:

> No danger of that, I hate runny yolks.
> Not to argue with success, but I believe Acraglas is actually designed not
> as an adhesive but as a leveler, a very stable filler material for bedding
> steel in wood while still being able to remove the steel. Perhaps it is the
> best for bonding too, I've heard that people use it as a glue.
> I wonder why JB would be superior to other epoxies- could it be the added
> fiber material?
> The pieces are slowly coming together, though- my goal is to make a certain
> kind of knife using only glue, without visible rivets- the first factor was
> over clamping, then adding the dimples you mentioned, and piercing the tang
> so as to make a continuous glue connection.
> It's tempting to use fast cure 5200, but....but yuk. It would gum up the
> sanding belts, and it's nasty messy to use. Sure does stick to everything,
> though, apparently forever. Not sure that it's ideal for food prep, though.
> Does anyone have a favorite knife making list for questions like this?
> Andy G.
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Graham Whaley" <graham.whaley at gmail.com>
> Sent: Monday, August 23, 2010 11:59 AM
> To: "Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] OT - vinegar vs. epoxy
>
> > Hope I'm not teaching you to suck any eggs here ...
> >
> > I've a feeling one of the favoured epoxies on the 'knife-list', at least
> > for
> > gluing through tang knives, is Brownells Acraglas. The slow set epoxies
> > tend
> > to be stronger than the fast cure ones, and are even stronger if they are
> > cured warmer rather than colder I believe.
> > If you can stand the potential black/grey glue line then JBWeld might be
> > something to try?
> > Epoxy works best when not clamped to a very thin layer. If you want a
> thin
> > glue line or you have a really good slab to blade fit then you might want
> > to
> > consider drilling some 'glue rivets' in the scales - that is, just some
> > shallow dimples to get some glue pockets in. Maybe some holes through the
> > blade tang as well for a similar effect ?
> >
> > If you are really interested in epoxies then there are a couple of
> > interesting references out there - from the boatbuilding and longbow
> > making
> > sectors at least. Ask me if you want some pointers (although it is
> > unlikely
> > to help you get a better bond).
> > Oh, another interesting snippet - aparently freshly sanded wood sticks
> > significantly better than wood that has been sat a while. Cleanliness is
> > key. I wipe down the surfaces with acetone before glueing
> >
> > Yeah, I have a 'glue fascination' :-)
> >
> >  Graham
> >
> > On Mon, Aug 23, 2010 at 6:42 PM, Andy Gladish
> > <gladish at cablerocket.com>wrote:
> >
> >> ok, that's kind of cool.
> >> Epoxy has been very much on my mind lately- searching for the best
> >> adhesive
> >> for scale handles on full tang knives, still not completely satisfied
> >> with
> >> Devcon
> >>
> >> --------------------------------------------------
> >> From: "Jason Nass" <me at wargoth.com>
> >> Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2010 7:28 PM
> >> To: "'Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA'" <theforge at mailman.qth.net
> >
> >> Subject: Re: [TheForge] OT - vinegar vs. epoxy
> >>
> >> > Filed away with all the other semi-useless scraps of knowledge that I
> >> > may
> >> > very well have use for some day...
> >> >
> >> > Seriously though, I can see occasional application of that quirk of
> >> epoxy,
> >> > as I do a fair bit of molding and casting in various epoxy resins.
> >> >
> >> > Jason Nass - me at wargoth.com
> >> >
> >> > -----Original Message-----
> >> > From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
> >> > [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Freeman
> >> > Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2010 9:37 PM
> >> > To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
> >> > Subject: [TheForge] OT - vinegar vs. epoxy
> >> >
> >> > Way OT.
> >> >
> >> > The following quotation is from an article on using seat belt
> strapping
> >> as
> >> > the hinge for a small boat rudder.
> >> >
> >> > The interesting part is on the chemistry of epoxy -- i.e., that you
> can
> >> > prevent epoxy from setting using vinegar.  I haven't tried this myself
> >> and
> >> > am not sure where it would prove useful.  I suspect any acid would
> work
> >> > here, since acids protonate amines and change their chemistry, but I'm
> >> not
> >> > sure that that's the chemistry involved.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > "...you must not allow the epoxy to harden on the strap where it has
> to
> >> > flex. But the ends of the strap have to be well saturated to hold the
> >> > slide
> >> > and the rudderstock halves together. The most successful way I've used
> >> > to
> >> > avoid glue where I don't want it is to get the parts all glued up and
> >> > assembled with clamps, keeping the glue off the flex line as much as
> >> > possible. Then use a syringe or squirt bottle to saturate the flex
> line
> >> > with
> >> > vinegar, working it through the fibers, before the glue starts to set.
> >> The
> >> > acetic acid neutralizes the amines in the epoxy hardener, so it won't
> >> > polymerize. The clamped parts won't allow the vinegar to reach the
> glue
> >> on
> >> > the strapping between them, so it goes off where you want it to." "
> >> >
> >> > --
> >> > Bruce
> >> > NJ
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