[TheForge] OT - vinegar vs. epoxy

[Graham Whaley]

Hope I'm not teaching you to suck any eggs here ...

I've a feeling one of the favoured epoxies on the 'knife-list', at least for
gluing through tang knives, is Brownells Acraglas. The slow set epoxies tend
to be stronger than the fast cure ones, and are even stronger if they are
cured warmer rather than colder I believe.
If you can stand the potential black/grey glue line then JBWeld might be
something to try?
Epoxy works best when not clamped to a very thin layer. If you want a thin
glue line or you have a really good slab to blade fit then you might want to
consider drilling some 'glue rivets' in the scales - that is, just some
shallow dimples to get some glue pockets in. Maybe some holes through the
blade tang as well for a similar effect ?

 If you are really interested in epoxies then there are a couple of
interesting references out there - from the boatbuilding and longbow making
sectors at least. Ask me if you want some pointers (although it is unlikely
to help you get a better bond).
 Oh, another interesting snippet - aparently freshly sanded wood sticks
significantly better than wood that has been sat a while. Cleanliness is
key. I wipe down the surfaces with acetone before glueing

 Yeah, I have a 'glue fascination' :-)

  Graham

On Mon, Aug 23, 2010 at 6:42 PM, Andy Gladish <gladish at cablerocket.com>wrote:

> ok, that's kind of cool.
> Epoxy has been very much on my mind lately- searching for the best adhesive
> for scale handles on full tang knives, still not completely satisfied with
> Devcon
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Jason Nass" <me at wargoth.com>
> Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2010 7:28 PM
> To: "'Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA'" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] OT - vinegar vs. epoxy
>
> > Filed away with all the other semi-useless scraps of knowledge that I may
> > very well have use for some day...
> >
> > Seriously though, I can see occasional application of that quirk of
> epoxy,
> > as I do a fair bit of molding and casting in various epoxy resins.
> >
> > Jason Nass - me at wargoth.com
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
> > [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Freeman
> > Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2010 9:37 PM
> > To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
> > Subject: [TheForge] OT - vinegar vs. epoxy
> >
> > Way OT.
> >
> > The following quotation is from an article on using seat belt strapping
> as
> > the hinge for a small boat rudder.
> >
> > The interesting part is on the chemistry of epoxy -- i.e., that you can
> > prevent epoxy from setting using vinegar.  I haven't tried this myself
> and
> > am not sure where it would prove useful.  I suspect any acid would work
> > here, since acids protonate amines and change their chemistry, but I'm
> not
> > sure that that's the chemistry involved.
> >
> >
> > "...you must not allow the epoxy to harden on the strap where it has to
> > flex. But the ends of the strap have to be well saturated to hold the
> > slide
> > and the rudderstock halves together. The most successful way I've used to
> > avoid glue where I don't want it is to get the parts all glued up and
> > assembled with clamps, keeping the glue off the flex line as much as
> > possible. Then use a syringe or squirt bottle to saturate the flex line
> > with
> > vinegar, working it through the fibers, before the glue starts to set.
> The
> > acetic acid neutralizes the amines in the epoxy hardener, so it won't
> > polymerize. The clamped parts won't allow the vinegar to reach the glue
> on
> > the strapping between them, so it goes off where you want it to." "
> >
> > --
> > Bruce
> > NJ
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