[TheForge] setting fence posts

[Bruce Freeman]

I calculate you're digging 12" holes, 9" in diameter.

I can't help thinking how much better off you'd be to dig deeper and
narrower.  Rule of thumb is 1/3 the post should be in the ground - and
then you don't need the concrete at all (but local conditions may
vary).

Alternatively, just dig narrower.  Any chance of getting a smaller
auger?  If you can swing it, it might be cheaper to make your own
auger.  The blades on the bottom need be sturdy, but the screw needs
only be strong enough to lift the earth out of the hole.  I'd envision
a stout rod as the axis with a couple bands spiraled up around it and
tack welded in place, or maybe to some cross-supports like skewers
through a BBQ spit.  Might could make something that attaches to the
existing 9" auger, but bores a hole only 4" or so in dia. x 12" deep.

That would reduce your concrete usage to about 1/4 cuft per hole x 50
holes = 12 cuft.

On Sun, May 24, 2009 at 8:26 AM, terry l. ridder <terrylr at blauedonau.com> wrote:
> hello;
>
> i have received my county permit to build my fence. i am looking at the
> various cement mixtures offered by quikcrete and others and do not get a
> good feel for just how many 40/80 lbs bags would be needed per fence
> post. i am using a 3-pt hitch post hole digger with a 9inch auger. the
> fence posts are 2 inch galvanized pipe. basically each hole is roughly
> 1.76 cubic feet. the pipe does take up some space but it is small
> compared to the hole. the fence is 400 ft long with a fence post every 8
> ft. roughly 50 fence post. so roughly 1.78 cubic feet x 50 gives 88
> cubic feet of cement is needed. what is the least expensive why to make
> up the necessary cement mixture for setting fence posts?
>
>
>
> --
> terry l. ridder ><>
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-- 
Bruce
NJ

The total lack of evidence is the surest sign that the conspiracy is working.