[TheForge] ot - roofing question

[Keziah's Forge]

WHAT was the question?

Anyway, Pete is right, the white stuff was just a harmelss mycele.  Too bad 
about burning the shingles:  all you hadda do is dry em out.  And Mike, too. 
The rabbetting -- called shiplap around here -- is not only overkill, but 
contributed to the moisture buildup.  Those cedar shingles gotta BREATHE 
and they were being choked off and drowned by the tight seal below and the 
asphalt above.  If you replace the roof with cedar -- which you really ought 
to do despite the $$ -- forget both the ply wood and the 1x8.  First off, 
3/4 is way overkill. 3/8 cdx is code for a dwelling, and 1/2 cdx is plenty 
for a shed roof.  Cedar shingles were never meant to go on ply anyway, 
unless furred an inch to allow for the required breathing.  For the shed, 
best to roof with 1X3 strapping on 5 1/2 " centers (assuming 16" shingles 
and 5 1/2" exposure).  No sheathing and definitely no vapor barrier -- no 
felt, poly tyvek, no nothing -- and nail those shingles right: 2 nails per, 
1/2" from each edge, just above the exposure.  IF you need a little 
insulation in the roof, then sheathe with the 1x8 NO shiplap, then furr with 
1x2 on the appropriate centers.   Install that wood right and it will 
outlast the 3 previous fubars.

Keziah
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "terry l. ridder" <terrylr at blauedonau.com>
To: "theforge e-mail list" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Monday, May 04, 2009 3:59 AM
Subject: [TheForge] ot - roofing question


> hello;
>
> one of the projects i was working on this weekend is re-roofing the one
> old shed that is going to become the gardening shed. this shed was built
> in the 1920's and was used for hogs in open pastures. the shed is on
> skids that have some impressive forged rings and hooks where a tractor
> or team of draft horses would latch on to shed and tow it to the next
> pasture. there were two layers of modern asphalt shingles which covered
> the original cedar shingles. i removed the cedar shingles carefully in
> an effort to salvage as many as possible. what i came across on removing
> the cedar shinglers are several large areas of a white fungus that was
> spreading out with white threads. it looked like a minature white tree
> that was spreading out under and over the cedar shingles. the planking
> under these areas looks like it has been burned. it is blackened and
> very wet. a slimey wet. some areas look like plain old dry rot. all
> checkered and crumbles at the slightest pressure.
>
> i am just wondering about the white stuff. any shingle that had a hint
> of this white stuff on it was burned. the planking will be removed. the
> planking is mostly 1 x 7. the boards are rabbetted on alternate sides.
>
> ascii art:
>     +---------+     +---------+
>     |         |     |         |
> +---+     +---+ +---+     +---+
> |         |     |         |
> +---------+     +---------+
>
> given the dry rot and the fungus areas i am going to remove the planking
> and replace it with either 3/4 inch exterior plywood or 1x8 lumber
> without the rabbetting. i could set up the routing table to route a 1/2
> inch rabbet on the alternate sides.
>
> i need to get some closeup photographs of the forged iron hardware at
> each end of the wood skid. it is amazing that they are still intact
> after all these years.
>
>
> -- 
> terry l. ridder ><>
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