[TheForge] -Hay rake tines

[David E. Smucker]

Ron,  I think we are really coming from the same point of view -- for thin 
sections of W 1 oil works great and you are less likely to lose the item to 
cracking.

On unknow steels I often first quench in oil -- then if the tool doesn't 
come up to the hardness I am looking for I reheat treat going to water or 
brine.

I almost always temper -- mostly in a small oven, that is in my shop.  While 
I make wood working tools, I not a bladesmith so don't look for quite the 
performance you bladesmiths do.

Dave

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Ron Childers" <munlaw2 at hcsmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 1:29 PM
To: "'Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA'" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Fw:  -Hay rake tines

> Dave, I think you are right in heat treating 1095 and w1 the same, but on 
> a
> wide, thin blade like a Bowie there is less chance of cracking if the 
> blade
> is quenched in oil especially when differentially quenched. I have always
> heard the old round hay rake tines were 1095. (Machinerys Handbook). When
> you said 1095 or W1 I assumed you meant the newer tines were W1. Anyway, 
> the
> wide, flat tines are pretty easy to forge into really good knives. The 
> round
> tines are only 3/8" but are good for "patch knives", etc.
>
> Ron C
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of David E. Smucker
> Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 12:37 PM
> To: TheForge
> Subject: [TheForge] Fw: -Hay rake tines
>
> Ron,  I treat 1095 and W 1 as the same steel.  I haven't seen W 1 in any
> form except drill rod in many years.  (I am sure it is out there 
> somewhere).
>
> Oil quench will do the job for many items of smaller section.  Less chance
> of cracking too.  Still if you want the maximum hardness and maximum depth
> of hardness then brine will produce that.  This is only an issue if you 
> are
> making a edged tool and want to have as much regrind stock as possible
> before needing to reharden.  For some folks this is important, for many
> others they may just choose to reharden if the find it necessary.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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