[TheForge] Fw: -Hay rake tines

Thu Mar 26 12:36:32 EDT 2009

Ron,  I treat 1095 and W 1 as the same steel.  I haven't seen W 1 in any 
form except drill rod in many years.  (I am sure it is out there somewhere). 
Oil quench will do the job for many items of smaller section.  Less chance 
of cracking too.  Still if you want the maximum hardness and maximum depth 
of hardness then brine will produce that.  This is only an issue if you are 
making a edged tool and want to have as much regrind stock as possible 
before needing to reharden.  For some folks this is important, for many 
others they may just choose to reharden if the find it necessary.

Dave

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Ron Childers" <munlaw2 at hcsmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 8:56 AM
To: "'Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA'" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [TheForge] -Hay rake tines

> Dave, I think the old round tines on the horse drawn hay rakes are 1095 
> and
> the newer flat ones as used on a 3 point hitch are w1. You are correct 
> about
> not over heating 1095. I have good results using oil as a quench.... Ron C
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of David E. Smucker
> Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 10:17 PM
> To: TheForge
> Subject: [TheForge] -Hay rake tines
>
> Lee,  In most cases hay rake tines are 1095 or W1.
>
> My procedure for using this steel for tools is to forge to my desired 
> shape.
>
> Then normalize them.  To normalize we heat the tool steel to just above
> critical temperature.   In this case just to the point that the steel
> becomes non-magnetic, and then let them air cool.
>
> Depending on their cross section they may be quite hard at this point.
> (Knife makers by the way often do this normalization 3 times to give very
> fine grain structure, but I think for most items once is enough.
> Normalization gives a big improvement in grain size -- too much
> normalization and you loose depth of hardness.)
>
> Then heat treat the item.  Slow heat to critical - just becomes
> non-magnetic -- don't over heat and then quench.  For this steel I like
> brine.
>
> Then oven temper.  For most tools with edges I use 325 to 400 F depending 
> on
>
> the trade off between hardness and toughness.  For strikers I have even
> suggest 212 F (boiling water) for a temper.  I use this 1095, W1  to make
> woodworking tools, such as chisels or carving tools.
>
> Hope this helps some.
>
> By the way, hay rake tines are a very good source of low cost W1, 1095
> steel.
>
> Dave
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "lee robbins" <naturadoc1 at yahoo.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 5:46 PM
> To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] TheForge Digest, Vol 62, Issue 55-Hay rake tines
>
>>
>>>>I know we covered this before, but what was the
>>>>consensus of opinion , to temper or use as quenched?
>>>>From hay rake tines to files, seems they would be too
>>>>brittle and hard to shave sparks in "as quenched". I
>>>>expect it will be a "resultant" issue , as in, do two
>>>>and see which showers best.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> dan tull
>>>> Georgia
>>
>> I got some hay rake tines to use for spring weeders. would they best be
>> normalized in the oven after quench when formed or better be bent and
>> formed cold?. how do you retain toughness with maximum springiness?
>>
>> thanks for all the interesting perspectives on sparks
>> Lee
>>
>>
>>
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