[TheForge] Fw: flint strikers

Tue Mar 24 17:07:48 EDT 2009

For a brine solution I shoot for 10 percent by weight.  So for 5 gallons of 
water that is about 4 pounds of salt.  What I do for my brine quench is use 
a 5 gallon plastic bucket with a lid.  Add water and salt.  When not in use 
I just keep the bucket lid on it.  Brine in your shop has a nasty way of 
increasing tool rusting so I just try to keep it from going all over the 
place.  When using tongs to quench an item in brine I "clean" them off in 
the slack tub after the quench.  I sure it add a little salt to my quench 
tub -- but that never seems to have been a problem.  The dog still likes it 
better than fresh water.  (Dogs love salt, cheap dog foods has extra salt 
added, so dogs like it.)

For all you super quench fans out there -- about 80 percent of the super 
quench speed comes from the salt in the mix.  The rest from the "soap".

Dave

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Daniel Kretchmar" <dan at irontreeworks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 4:32 PM
To: "Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Fw: Fw: flint strikers

> Dave,
>    What are the proportions and ingredients of the brine you use.  I
> would like to try it. :)  Always willing to try a different method!
>
> Daniel
> www.irontreeworks.com
>
> On 3/24/09, David E. Smucker <davesmucker at hotmail.com> wrote:
>> If you have trouble with cracking with 1095 it is most likely that you 
>> had
>> your steel too hot when you quenched.  You need to be at just
>> non-magnetic -- any above this and you are asking for cracks.  I also 
>> like
>> brine much better that plain water for queching 1095 -- at first they 
>> would
>> not seem to make sense but while brine is faster than water it also 
>> provides
>> an much more even quench.  This is because steam pockets do not form on 
>> the
>> surface.  Quenching this way will provide a very very hard and very very
>> brittle tool.  That is why I always temper.  YMMV  (Your mileage may 
>> vary).
>> If you have a method and it works -- it works.  Or as I have heard Dan 
>> say
>> "It works doesn't it."
>>
>> Dave
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> From: "David E. Smucker" <davesmucker at hotmail.com>
>> Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 12:40 PM
>> To: "TheForge" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>> Subject: [TheForge] Fw:  flint strikers
>>
>> > Dan, So little hardness is lost with a low temperature temper that it
>> > would
>> > seem to handle these the same as woodworking tools.  If you temper in 
>> > an
>> > oven at 325 to 350 F for 1 hour you only loose a point or two of 
>> > Rockwell
>> > C
>> > but gain a lot of toughness.  They will still be rather brittle but 
>> > very
>> > functional.
>> >
>> > If you color temper a very light straw from retained heat is all you 
>> > need,
>> > but the oven is safer in not over tempering.
>> >
>> > Dave
>> >
>> > --------------------------------------------------
>> > From: "dan tull" <dantull at numail.org>
>> > Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 11:20 AM
>> > To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>> > Subject: [TheForge] flint strikers
>> >
>> >> I know we covered this before, but what was the consensus of opinion , 
>> >> to
>> >> temper or use as quenched?  From hay rake tines to files, seems they
>> >> would
>> >> be too brittle and hard to shave sparks in "as quenched". I expect it
>> >> will
>> >> be a "resultant" issue , as in, do two and see which showers best.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> dan tull
>> >> Georgia
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