[TheForge] Fw: Fw: flint strikers

[David E. Smucker]

If you have trouble with cracking with 1095 it is most likely that you had 
your steel too hot when you quenched.  You need to be at just 
non-magnetic -- any above this and you are asking for cracks.  I also like 
brine much better that plain water for queching 1095 -- at first they would 
not seem to make sense but while brine is faster than water it also provides 
an much more even quench.  This is because steam pockets do not form on the 
surface.  Quenching this way will provide a very very hard and very very 
brittle tool.  That is why I always temper.  YMMV  (Your mileage may vary). 
If you have a method and it works -- it works.  Or as I have heard Dan say 
"It works doesn't it."

Dave

--------------------------------------------------
From: "David E. Smucker" <davesmucker at hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 12:40 PM
To: "TheForge" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Subject: [TheForge] Fw:  flint strikers

> Dan, So little hardness is lost with a low temperature temper that it 
> would
> seem to handle these the same as woodworking tools.  If you temper in an
> oven at 325 to 350 F for 1 hour you only loose a point or two of Rockwell 
> C
> but gain a lot of toughness.  They will still be rather brittle but very
> functional.
>
> If you color temper a very light straw from retained heat is all you need,
> but the oven is safer in not over tempering.
>
> Dave
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "dan tull" <dantull at numail.org>
> Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 11:20 AM
> To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: [TheForge] flint strikers
>
>> I know we covered this before, but what was the consensus of opinion , to
>> temper or use as quenched?  From hay rake tines to files, seems they 
>> would
>> be too brittle and hard to shave sparks in "as quenched". I expect it 
>> will
>> be a "resultant" issue , as in, do two and see which showers best.
>>
>>
>> dan tull
>> Georgia
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