[TheForge] rusting

[Grant Marcoux]

Bill:  You can get a deeper black with Birchwood Casey if you warm the
metal.  Blacking using selenic acid based solutions requires through
cleaning and degreasing of the surface.  This is especially true during
cold-rust bluing of guns

Acid based colorants generally require thorough cleaning as well.  Birchwood
Casey is this type and will create red rust (ferric oxide) in the presence
of moisture.  Thus the need to warm the metal and neutralize the acid when
the color is reached.

True black can be obtained by using "Rust Stop" , a rust converter that
changes red rust to black very effectively.  You can get this from Sculpt
Nouveau, Inc.

Grant

-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net]On Behalf Of Woolley
Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 4:28 AM
To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: Re: [TheForge] rusting


Grant Marcoux wrote:
>
> I use this finish method for work I want to appear aged/contemporaneous to
> surroundings.  I also use this finishing method for muzzleloader barrels,
> but with a stronger-biting acid colorant.
>
>
What specifically do you use?  I do a lot of blackening etc. of carbon
steel and am always looking for good chemicals. I have never gotten a
true black from Birchwood Casey, more like what you describe and also
some variations of blue or grey depending on how much mill scale I
removed or whether or not I pulled off some of the dried solution with
non woven or whatever. I am talking about fabricated pieces, table
bases, frames etc.

Bill Woolley
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