[TheForge] Shop Air using Copper

Dan Brewer danqualman at gmail.com
Tue Jan 13 21:46:53 EST 2009


One of the things you need to consider is the friction of the pipe on the
delivery of the air.  The larger diameter of the pipe will determine the
volume of the air available.  Iron and copper pipe help to drop the moisture
out of teh compressed air.  Any of the plastics do not work as well to do
that.  PVC is dangerous to use with compressed air.  PVC will become brittle
over time and will fail.  The PVC can become projectiles that are dangrous.
Senf the money up fron and save yourself teh trouble of fixing the failed
pipe later.  When installing the pipe slope it away from the compressor.
Put a shutoff valve ant each point the you put a connector.  A regulator and
water seperator at each hose location.

Dan in Auburn


On Tue, Jan 13, 2009 at 6:12 PM, <sos at frii.com> wrote:

> I'm pretty sure something like that is on the list. That is about the only
> way you could replace a line down the road.
>
> > I'd be careful of putting any plumbing directly in the crushed stone.
>  The
> > same expansion/contraction that breaks up concrete causes abrasion in
> > crushed stone.   Nothing but sand or loamy sand around here, so i
> wouldn't
> > know what to tell you to cushion it with.  Run it inside black plastic
> > water
> > line probably.
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <sos at frii.com>
> > To: "Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2009 8:53 PM
> > Subject: Re: [TheForge] Shop Air using Copper
> >
> >
> >> Thanks Frosty, good point.
> >> I'm not sure if it applies or not--the plumbing will be buried in the
> >> crushed stone that goes under the concrete slab, not actually in the
> >> slab.
> >> This leaves the question of how stuff gets from under to above; yet to
> >> be
> >> discussed.
> >>
> >> Thanks for adding the part about hydronic heat, we are using that (in
> >> the
> >> house, not the shop). One more thing to keep an eye on the hvac guy.
> >>
> >> Steve
> >>
> >>> Put about 100psi air in the PEX when you pour the
> >>> concrete so there's a little space or it'll break the
> >>> concrete up over time with the rising and falling
> >>> pressure. This is especially true for hydronic heat
> >>> using PEX or Wisbo in concrete.
> >>>
> >>> Frosty
> >>> -------------------------------
> >>> If it ain't forged
> >>> it ain't real.
> >>> Wrought iron is.
> >>> The FrostWorks
> >>>
> >>> Meadow Lakes, AK.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> From: <sos at frii.com>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>I hear that people are using PEX type flexible
> >>>>plumbing for routing air.
> >>>> Soft plastic hose is obviously a bad choice for
> >>>> exposed connections; I'm
> >>>> thinking of using it to plumb the shop I'm building.
> >>>> Any thoughts on using
> >>>> PEX with a hard cover (like concrete)?
> >>>>
> >>>> Steve
> >>>>
> >>>
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