[TheForge] Re: OT Goats

[Jerry Frost]

Portable fencing is pretty straight forward, we use 
ranch panels, they're 53" x 16' and work quite well for 
goats, even full sized ones. In the spring while the 
pasture is recovering the grass on the west side of the 
house is usually pretty lush early so we put the goats 
there in a portable pen. It takes maybe 15 minutes to 
move it to an uneaten piece of ground. We usually do 
this in the morning before bringing them out.

Panels can also be made with chain link in 10' sections 
with simple cross pipes for feet. You see these on 
construction sites. Ranch panels are probably a lot 
cheaper though, especially if you have a Fleet Farm 
(Farm Fleet?) near by.

As for goats being hard on fencing they're usually 
pretty docile as long as something isn't chasing them. 
For meat and brushing I recommend Boer wethers, they're 
particularly docile and VERY meaty. Mmmmmm.

Shelter from the bad weather is important though it 
doesn't have to be fancy, an old utility or stock 
trailer you can tow around would be perfect. It would 
also make an excellent anchor for the fence panels and 
a way to move them easily.

Basic veterinary care is important as well though foot 
care isn't as important when the animals in question 
are only going to be kept till fall then butchered. 
Regardless, knowing how to check, clean and trim hooves 
is a very good idea. Typically farriers trim goat 
hooves as well as horses and are usually happy to show 
the owner how. Seeing as there are horses involved 
already and that's my suggestion. The farrier will also 
be familiar with the warning signs of hoof problems.

I don't know what you mean by drenching but it sounds 
like nutritional supplements. In the goat world 
"drenching" is the practice of giving them doses of 
vitamins, minerals and such. Nutradrench is commonly 
available from Jeffers, Animal Food Warehouse (more 
expensive) etc. or virtually any livestock supply. Then 
there's Probios and a couple others. In most cases it's 
pretty hard to overdose them.

A good loose mineral is important as oppopsed to 
mineral licks which have way more salt than minerals. 
We use SweetLix which has a low salt content so the 
goats take all the minerals they need and don't stop 
short because they've had enough salt. Also, do NOT 
think sheep and goats have the same nutritional 
requirements, they're quite different. The or one of 
the biggest is copper requirements, barely life 
sustaining for a goat is near toxic for sheep so don't 
get fooled by sheep/goat minerals they're not too good 
for either.

Goats require horse quality or better hay, nothing 
kills goats like bloating and a little mold is a fast 
bloater for goats. Clean water is a must of course but 
for as short a time as the kids are thinking of keeping 
them grain isn't going to be important till just before 
they go to the freezer. A few weeks to a month before 
you put a wrap on their careers take them off brushing 
duty and start feeding good hay and a little grain, 
easy on the corn you don't want FAT goats, you're just 
flushing any gamey taste caused by eating whatever.

Frosty
-------------------------------
If it ain't forged
it ain't real.
Wrought iron is.
The FrostWorks

Meadow Lakes, AK.


From: "Ruuf" <ruuf at slingshot.co.nz>



>I can't see your fencing idea working for more than a 
>week or two, as it is quite time consuming and a 
>hassle moving fencing all the time, especially where 
>the ground is hard.  Electric strip grazing fencing is 
>bad enough. You also have to secure the goats while 
>you move the fencing and move their water and salt. 
>Goats don't handle adverse weather and may need some 
>form of shelter, which may also need moving too.
>
> No one has mentioned that Goats also need their feet 
> checking fairly regularly especially in wet areas, 
> and may require drenching from time to time. It can 
> be difficult getting a drench specificially for 
> Goats. Drenches are usually given on the weight of 
> the animal.
> Rufus.
>
>