[TheForge] Re: Top of a Broken Anvil

[dann at wctatel.net]

Of all the writings on this subject, I like Jerry Frost's idea best.

Drilling, tapping and threading long bolts / ready-rod into the bottom of
the anvil.
I think he also wrote about adding some re-rod, and then pouring a new
base from concrete.

Making a discarded old tool work, makes me feel good about myself.
So if the anvil top becomes a working anvil again... wonderful.  If it
kind- of- works and you get a year or three of use out of it, then it
probably paid for the time. If it doesn't work, you gain something in the
effort.  I've paid for a lot of education after finishing college.

Dann


>>From what I remember it looks like it was cut with a torch.  Unless it
>> was trimmed a bit to make it easier to repair after it broke, I'd have to
>> say it was cut.  For what reason I don't know.  Maybe some idiot was
>> cutting it up to make it easier to recycle as scrap.  I personally have
>> no idea why anyone would cut up an anvil for any reason(even a crappy
>> cast iron one doesn't deserve such treatment).  I do own a 35lb. cast
>> iron Vulcan anvil that a previous owner used for drilling things.  They
>> laid out things on the horn and drilled through them into the horn.  The
>> horn is riddled with holes.  I thought I might fill it with iron welding
>> rod, but then I got my 70 lb. Kohlswa.  So, I just let it go.
>
>
> --- On Wed, 9/10/08, A Vida <osan at netlabs.net> wrote:
>
>> From: A Vida <osan at netlabs.net>
>> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: Top of a Broken Anvil
>> To: "Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>> Date: Wednesday, September 10, 2008, 8:28 AM
>> It just occurred to me that many Trentons were of 2 piece
>> construction -
>> the top half wrought iron and the bottom half mild steel.
>> These were
>> electrically welded at the waist.  My friend Marshall has
>> one like this.
>> Great anvil, but the weld is a possible failure point.  If
>> the welder
>> was having a bad day, a job may have been botched, yet look
>> OK and pass
>> QC.  Perhaps this is what happened here?
>>
>> is there any evidence of failed electrical welds?
>>
>>
>> Jerry Frost wrote:
>> > The only thing that might cause a problem would be
>> silica/slag
>> > inclusions but I don't know how much problem
>> it'd be.
>> >
>> > Frosty
>> > -------------------------------
>> > If it ain't forged
>> > it ain't real.
>> > Wrought iron is.
>> > The FrostWorks
>> >
>> > Meadow Lakes, AK.
>> >
>> >
>> > From: "dan tull" <dantull at numail.org>
>> >
>> >
>> >> The bottom should be wrought and soft for
>> drilling.
>> >> Only the top 1/2" of plate is steel.
>> >>>
>> >>> As to drilling it, I'm not sure that I
>> have anything heavy enough to
>> >>> drill it out.
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >
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