[TheForge] Foundations and shop design
David E. Smucker
davesmucker at hotmail.com
Fri May 23 14:29:03 EDT 2008
Three things I did with my shop floor that have worked are:
Since this was my second shop with a poured floor and the old shop had a
sloping floor and drain -- I went the other way in this shop -- 100 percent
level floor. The guys that did the finishing work used a laser level system
and the floor came out damn level. Smooth finish too which I like. The
level floor means it is much easier to set equipment, move it around and you
have a large flat surface good enough for lots of work. I really like it.
Second item was to green cut "crack" lines in just as soon as the floor
starts to set. Try to have the cuts a series of squares. I have no
cracking "except" in the cuts after 6 years. Green cutting with a special
saw is fast and adds little cost.
Third item is that for under the power hammers, anvil and such I just used
an 8 inch floor with 3/4 rebar on 12 inch centers. I have had no cracking
or problems in this area. My heavy hammer is a 60 KG hammer from Tom Clark.
It does sit on oak timbers. My light hammer is a 50 pound Clay Spencer tire
hammer.
Dave
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Ekaterina Harrison" <ekaterina at wildblue.net>
Sent: Friday, May 23, 2008 12:15 PM
To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Subject: [TheForge] Foundations and shop design
> Hi All,
>
> We are just getting ready to a pour a cement floor in the new shop, we
> are building. I have the opportunity here to address and improve my work
> environment. I am very excited about this. One of the things we are doing
> is running steel under the cement across the whole length of the shop to
> to provide more grounding points around the shop and running pipe for
> airline hook ups and some conduit for stringing some wiring to the other
> side of the shop.
>
> One of the issues that I have been trying to figure out is the best way
> to mount a power hammer and treadle hammer. My current power hammer is
> bolted to the floor with a 1" rubber mat between it and the floor. As you
> might guess in the area around the hammer the floor has sustained some
> damage and I, also, have had a hell of a time with my tools jumping of
> benches when I work the hammer. So, it seems quite clear that in the new
> shop the hammer should have its own independent foundation. We have been
> considering several options:
>
> We are planning to leave a graveled area just big enough for the
> hammer( surrounded by the cement floor) or possibly cut out the section
> of floor after we have figured out the best location for the hammer. And
> then :
>
> 1- independant cement foundation 1' thick
> 2- block up hammer on timbers
>
> OR - I have, also, seen some blacksmiths simply leave a whole section
> of dirt floor for their various power hammer stuff. I have been
> considering this as well. The draw back to this that I see is simply
> difficulty in clean up. The plus is it seems to leave more versatility
> for adjustment of tool placing, replacing and upgrading.
>
> Issues I have been wondering about:
> If hammer is set on timbers is there a balance issue to consider - as in
> keeping it from tilting and moving?
> I know that the treadle hammer ,I made, I never did mount it to the
> floor, figuring that it was heavy enough it should stay put. I was
> surprised just how much it did move across the floor.
>
> Any suggestions, pro and cons, experiences of mounting hammers and
> general shop layout would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Ekaterina
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