[TheForge] propane vs coal vs charcoal

[Peter Hirst]

Frosty:  you sound like you've really researched this.  have you found 
anywhere a burner head that mixes air into the retort gas return -- like a 
propane forge burner --  for even more efficient burning?  I have a coulple 
of designs that do everything you suggest, but want to go the extra step and 
get the most efficient combustion possible out of  of the volatiles.

Peter hirst


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jerry Frost" <akfrosty at mtaonline.net>
To: "Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2008 7:27 PM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] propane vs coal vs charcoal


> There are a number of online how tos for making charcoal.
>
> There are a few pretty simple rules of thumb though.
>
> Hardwood makes for longer lasting fires.
>
> Softwood makes for hotter fires.
>
> Wood needs to be 3" or less in at least one dimension or it won't char 
> (pyrolize) completely without eating into your finished product. The more 
> consistently sized the wood is the less will be lost as the thinner wood 
> will be done and begin to be consumed before the thicker wood is finished. 
> The drier it is to start the better of course and steer away from pitchy 
> resinous woods for coaling though they are dandy for heating the process.
>
> The more air tight the container the better your return. Of course it 
> can't be completely air tight or it'll burst as it heats.
>
> Piping the volatiles into the fire chamber for a self sustaining process 
> is the most efficient. For further efficiency recuping the escaping heat 
> to heat the shop, house, water, etc. is another step in the right 
> direction.
>
> When it stops smoking and the flue gs flames go out you need a way to 
> block air from entering the coaling chamer or it won't go out and 
> eventually be reduced to ash. It takes VERY little air to keep charcoal 
> burning. A little fiberglass insulation stuffed into the exhaust works 
> dandy. Again, you can NOT close it off air tight or it'll crush the barrel 
> as it cools.
>
> A double chambered retort works best. The wood is packed tightly in the 
> inner chamber and the fire is lit in the outer chamber which contains the 
> heat reducing the fuel necessary for the process. It also allows a multi 
> fuel operation without fear of contaminating the charcoal so waste oil can 
> be used, or garbage or whatever.
>
> Frosty
> -------------------------------
> If it ain't forged
> it ain't real.
> Wrought iron is.
> The FrostWorks
>
> Meadow Lakes, AK.
>
>
> From: "don schad" <sir.eggplantalot at gmail.com>
>
>
>> On Tue, Jun 10, 2008 at 5:26 PM, David Childress <trollkeep at gmail.com> 
>> wrote:
>>> Terry,
>>>
>>> I have a book on making charcoal and coke.  If you have a close to
>>> sealed vessel with a single pipe coming out.  Run the pipe under the
>>> vessel.  Have 1/8" holes 1" apert drilled in the pipe. Fill your
>>> vessel with wood.  You build a fire under the vessel.  As the wood
>>> inside heats it releases flamable gases once this starts the pipe
>>> becomes a burner and the process is now self sustaining.  When all the
>>> wood is converted the "burner will go out.  Allow to cool before
>>> opening.  Viola, charcoal.
>>
>> What is the name of the book?  Would (wood) you recommend it?
>>
>> Also, what size/type of wood is suitable for making charcoal?  Are we
>> talking larger chunks (logs), or would smaller stuff also work - like
>> sticks, branches, etc?   I have a lot of woodland debris which it
>> would be nice to be able to process and use, as opposed to simply
>> burning it up to get rid of it.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> don
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Manage membership or unsubscribe at:
> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
> theforge mail list group photo site is
> http://www.photoaccess.com
> Login:  blacksmithblacksmith at hotmail.com
> password:  anvil
> ___________
>
>
>