[TheForge] Re: Free the Stake! Long live the wrought!

Ben Barrett stircrazyben at gmail.com
Mon Jan 21 18:14:16 EST 2008


I'm thinking that it would rust into the sliver-folds, deeper into the
metal -- so strong corrosives, acids, rust-eaters etc might get
further into the metal than one would naively expect, damaging the
physical integrity.  You could be left with an eggshell of your
original...?

Here is a nice summary of wrought iron, written for fabricators on
artmetal.com: http://www.artmetal.com/project/NOMMA/WROUGHT.HTM
It references older sources, which may be on some of your shelves.

cheerio,

ben


On Jan 21, 2008 2:25 PM, Peter Hirst <saltydog335 at aol.com> wrote:
> What is it about the way wrought rusts that causes concern?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <wmullett at bright.net>
> To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>
>
>
> Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 5:21 PM
> Subject: Re: Re: [TheForge] Re: Free the Stake!
>
>
> >I would think you have 5 possible areas of contact between the stake and
> >the swedge block.  The four sides of the stake post to the walls of the
> >swedge block and then the bearing bottom of the stake against the top of
> >the swedge block. All of these surfaces are "rusted" togeather at the
> >least.
> >
> > I'm not sure of the effect of penetrants like PB Blaster on old wrought
> > iron so I would test that elsewhere first on similar wrought material.  PB
> > Blaster works great if you give it time but because of how wrought
> > "rusts", I would be afraid of this product.
> >
> > I would think you could run a metal cutting blade between the stake and
> > the block to the limits of the post.  That junction is probably the most
> > connected area.
> >
> > There is no way for the stake post to have been upset in the block socket
> > unless someone struck the post from below.  Therefore this connection
> > would just be a pressed fit + rust.  After doing the above, I would turn
> > the block upside down and use a press on a steel block that just fits
> > inside the swedge hole.  Seems like it would have to come free.
> >
> >
> > From: "Peter Hirst" <saltydog335 at aol.com>
> > Date: Mon Jan 21, 4:28 PM
> > To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> > Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: Free the Stake!
> >
> > Thanks for this thought.  I  should have mentioned:  I have considered
> > this
> > and relegated it to the "Last resort" category.  I believe the piece is
> > very
> > old wrought iron, and I want to make every effort first to preserve its
> > integrity.
> >
> > Peter
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Larry Brown" <lp.brown at verizon.net>
> > To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> > Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 10:44 AM
> > Subject: RE: [TheForge] Re: Free the Stake!
> >
> >
> >>
> >> Something I haven't seen suggested:
> >> Cut the stake off close to the block. Reforge a taper on the stake. Drill
> >> a bunch of holes in the stub making as large a hole as possible or blow
> >> through with a torch. Heat the stub remains with a torch, preferably a
> >> large or rosebud tip. This will force the stub to upset into itself and
> >> will probably fall out or be easily driven out after cooling with the
> >> block upside down
> >> L Brown
> >>
> >> At 08:39 PM 1/20/2008 -0500, you wrote:
> >>>Ok...I think the "Free the stake" thread is about worn thin...No?
> >>>
> >>>Mark
> >>
.... (no :)


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