[TheForge] flues

[Peter Hirst]

The Uniform Building Code, which most likely applies in your area, prohibits 
venting two fire sources through a single flue. Despite that, a shop I work 
in part time has a similar setup with the forge and a kerosene heater and 
works ok. The heater is on a 6" and the forge is on an 8", and the flue 
above the point where they join is just 10". Add the necessary area for each 
source to determine the total area for the main flue.  (Don't add the 
diameters, add the areas of the cross sections).  The area of a round flue 
is 3.14 x  (radius squared).  So a 6" has a section of  about 28.25 sq. in, 
and the 8" has a section of about 50.25.  The ten inch has 78.5.  Voila.

PGH


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ben Barrett" <stircrazyben at gmail.com>
To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 2:43 PM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] flues


> This is a great conversation, guys, thank you all -- I have an
> additional question as I am also developing my plan to install a flue
> pipe.  In my shop, I'd like to pipe a small woodstove and my coal
> forge's flue together, so there is only one hole in the roof.  I was
> figuring that the most sure-fire (heh) way to maintain a good draft on
> either or both would be to make a good-sealing damper on each pipe
> below the "Y" piece that will bring them together.
>
> I am planning on having the Y joiner just above the forge hood (which
> will have a drop pipe too, I hope, if I can fit it, so prolly above
> where the drop pipe raises up to), but still inside the shop.  This
> joiner is the only horizontal dog-leg I can foresee in my plan.  Is
> there any good or bad luck folks have had with sharing a flue like
> this in their homes or workshops??
>
> thanks!
>
> ben
>
>
> On Jan 17, 2008 11:31 AM, David E. Smucker <davesmucker at hotmail.com> 
> wrote:
>> I 2nd Ron comment about using a section of culvert.  A 20 ft length is 
>> not
>> too expensive and most are about 16 gauge with stiffening added by the
>> corrugation.  My stack is a 20 ft length of 15 inch culvert with a shot 
>> gun
>> top.  I have a large hood, not a side draft and it pulls very well.  One
>> area that a lot of smiths loose draft is by what they place at the top of
>> the stack.  Depending on design the rain hood, can cut the stack draft in
>> half.
>>
>> Dave Smucker
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Ron Childers" <munlaw2 at hcsmail.com>
>> To: <GHS at execpc.com>; "'Sponsored by ABANA'" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>> Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 12:24 PM
>> Subject: RE: [TheForge] flues
>>
>>
>> >A steel culvert seems to work well.... Ron C
>> >
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
>> > [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of GRAF
>> > Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 11:53 AM
>> > To: Sponsored by ABANA
>> > Subject: Re: [TheForge] flues
>> >
>> > For 12 inch the MINIMUM I'd use is 24 gauge. Heavier if you can manage
>> > it. Above 8 inch the size of the pipe makes it unstable dimensionally 
>> > in
>> > the lighter gauges. When you are up in the wind having things collapse
>> > above a brace because it didn't stay round would not be a good thing.
>> > Mike Graf
>> >
>> >
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