[TheForge] Drawer pulls

[Andrew Vida]

A few things.

First, this is not a high precision endeavor, so if you are out a few 
thousandths this way or that it should not pose a problem unless your 
client is some anal freak - in that case you charge through the anus 
make it worth your trouble.

If you have 2 reference surfaces on the shanks normal to each other, you 
should have no problems with drilling.  The cut also has to be 
reasonably normal to the shank faces.

The vise jaw will provide plumb reference to one of the shank sides. 
for the other degree of freedom, along the vise jaws, constrain with a 
little thingy like this:


                            _____  ____
             THINGY    ->  |     ||    |
         __________________|  ___||    | <-- spike head
        |                    |    |     .
        |____________________|   /________\

The second reference surface on the spike goes against the upper portion 
of the thingy.  This makes it plumb in the vise along the jaws.  Thingy 
should be thinner than spike shank as it is only for placement and not 
clamping.  Set the thingy down on  clean vise, set spike in place and 
press shank side against thingy, then while holding it in place, tighten 
jaws.  This should result in work that is clamped fast and in the 
correct vertical orientation relative to the spindle axis.  Then get 
your punch mark under the bit and drill away for all you are worth. 
Fast, simple, and plenty accurate.

The recess in the lower right side of thingy is  for clearance of the 
spike head, in case you were wondering.

Best wishes with drilling many holes.  better you than me.

	-Andy
.
Ron Childers wrote:
> Mike,
> 
> A gentleman is building a log house and wants all the hardware made of
> railroad spikes. My idea for the drawer pulls and cabinet knobs is to cut
> about 1" from the head then drill and tap for 1/4" screws.
> 
> That part of the job is tedious and not very vain glorious, but we will have
> to adapt a drill press vice to hold the head so the shank is perfectly
> straight and exactly centered.  If it was only six or eight, I would
> consider fullering and squaring with a monkey tool, then tapping for a 1/4"
> nut. 
> 
> The door handles and knockers are a more interesting and creative part of
> this undertaking, but the fastening aspect is similar. 
> 
> If there is a better way, I'm open to suggestions.
>