[TheForge] Tap & Di

[terry l. ridder]

hello;

liquid nitrogen works well.
if the part is to big for a freezer or a liquid nitrogen dewar
build a styrofoam dam around the tap and seal the styrofoam with
silicon. fill with liquid nitrogen.


On Mon, 15 Dec 2008, Jerry Smith wrote:

> If you break a tap off, put the whole thing in the freezer.
> The broken tap will shrink away from what ever you have tapped.
> If you don't believe me, try it.
>
> Jerry
>
> --- On Mon, 12/15/08, David E. Smucker <davesmucker at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> From: David E. Smucker <davesmucker at hotmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Tap & Di
> To: "Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Date: Monday, December 15, 2008, 5:16 PM
>
>
>
> I didn't mention it but the Irwin -- Hanson set I noted below are high-speed steel.
> I too favor high-speed steel over carbide for taps and dies.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
> From: Marc Godbout
> Sent: Monday, December 15, 2008 3:11 PM
> To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Tap & Di
>
> For the occasional hacker like myself, I like the high-speed steel taps,
> instead of the carbide ones. I believe they dull quicker, but don't break as often.
>
> --Marc
>
>
>
> On Mon, Dec 15, 2008 at 2:30 PM, David E. Smucker <davesmucker at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> I recently purchase a set, made by Irwin -- Hanson, made in USA, which seem to be similar
> in quality to Greenfield. The dies are hex shape. I think I got it on sale from MSC. I
> would not worry about "new parts" provided the dies are standard shape, either hex or round.
> You can buy one off replacements from most machine tool supply houses that will fit your handles.
> As to the taps, almost all replacement taps will work and are standard square drive.
>
> The best way to keep from breaking taps is to make sure they are always started straight.
> And that they are sharp. A small starting block with a right angle clearance hole the size
> of the tap is a real help. If a tap is dull, throw it out or use the steel for something
> else, much cheaper to buy a new tap than try to remove a broken one. (We all have broken
> taps, unless we never tap any holes.)
>
> Dave Smucker
>
>
>
>
> From: Peter Hirst
>
> I am looking for a good tap & die set for the new shop. Most of my applications are SAE
> between 3/16 and 5/8" or so, with some NP 1/4 and 1/8 and the oddpball NPT 1/8 27 used for
> lamp parts. I would really like a new old stock Vermont or Greenfirld set, but have been
> advised against anything I can't easily get new parts for.
>

-- 
terry l. ridder ><>